I am glad to help. I just hope that you don’t be disappointed if the IAT mod doesn’t do anything. I mean, be mentally prepared as we are just giving away this information in an attempt to stop people scamming on eBay and now beyond eBay. This is provided as an option for people who want to try the IAT resistor modification anyway, so they can do it without paying a pennie to those scammers.

Soon we will be posting the info on the color codes for resistors as a complement. While it is done, you will easily find that information on Google or Wikipedia.

Regards,

Richard

Step out from those placebo resistors! Get high quality performance chips at:

http://www.OtherDeal.com

Hello. I am amazed that many people still have success selling such a rip off and they don’t even send installing instructions.

Your info is as follows:

The IAT sensor in the 2004 Nissan Altima is embedded with the MAF sensor.

The MAF sensor is located in the incoming air path at the left side (driver’s side) of the engine compartment.

The MAF has 5 wires on its connector and the IAT is directly wired to the wire #5, which color is YELLOW with GREEN.

The resistor can be wired from that wire #5 to any of the two black wires in the same connector, which are #3 and #6 (Yes, it has 5 wires, but for some reason they are numbered 2,3,4,5 and 6).

Please remember, one lead of the resistor is wired to one of the black wires, but the black wire is NOT cut or disconnected from the MAF sensor. Otherwise you will cut an important ground connection needed by this sensor, making possible erratic behavior of the vehicle.

The other resistor lead is wired to the #5, and the wire must be cut from the MAF, leaving enough length on the wire that goes to the MAF, so it can be reconnected in any future time you wish to do so. Just cover it with electrical tape or a wire nut.

I am sorry, but at this moment I have no picture for this, but the connection will be something similar to what is explained in the pictured diagram on the following Ford article:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=368

By the way, I don’t know what you bought, but typical resistance values for the IAT of the 2004 Nissan Altima is as follows:

14 F (-10 C) = 7900 – 9300 Ohms
77 F (25 C) = 1900 – 2100 Ohms
176 F (80 C) = 310 – 370 Ohms

Good luck,

Richard

Desertdude:

The incoming air temperature read by the ecu, will be altered (fooled) by the resistor replacing the IAT and this false registered temperature will depend on the amount of the resistance.

Please check the first article on this on the link below:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=64

Regards,

Richard

Your welcome Xakep

Hello Aj.

Yes, in the Fusion, there are 6 wires in the MAF, of which, the internal IAT is wired to #1 (Violet/Gray) and #5 (Black/Green).

In this case, the connection must be done by opening (cutting) wire #1 and connecting one lead of the resistor to the part of the cut wire that goes to the ecu and the other resistor lead must be connected to wire #5, without cutting it from the MAF.

For a clearer idea on using a switch to be able to select between “Normal” and “Mod”, you may check this image:

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Aj.

Well, electrically, it is possible. You can use a toggle switch, putting its common terminal to the IAT wire that goes to the ecu and then select any of the three possible positions, being them, (1) one connector to the normal IAT on the MAF, and the other two to a couple of resistor values, (2) one for rich and (3) one for lean.

As you may have noticed, it will take one three way switch and two resistors, not just one.

Check the picture below:

It all depends on your car. If you are getting any change in performance, consumption, fueling or ignition, then you are on your way. Otherwise, it will be a waste of time.

Best regards,

Richard

Hello Duck.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the information on the 2010 model, but if like it is been happening so far, the MAF from a prior model might have the same configuration.

I have the information on the MAF for the 2008 Tundra. The only thing is that it is supposed to be 4.7L instead of 4.6L as you mentioned.

Anyway, the MAF from the 2008 model has 5 wires, on which the IAT is connected to wire #4 (Yellow/Black), so the connection should be made in the same manner as the other ones explained on this article, across that wire #4 and a ground reference, which is wire #5 (Brown).

In a note apart from the topic, eBay buyers like you should take action and leave a negative feedback to these sellers as this is dishonest business and sellers know it. Most of them are kids selling a concept that doesn’t work and once they have your money, as in this case, they don’t even give installation instructions.

I think that the word should be spread and tell people about this article so they don’t get fooled. I am not selling the idea nor the instructions or even asking for money for information on this blog. Just giving people the choice to do it their selves if they have any doubt on if this either works or not, without being ripped off.

Well excuse me for this. Good luck on your project.

Thanks for reading this article,

Richard

Thanks for your comments Bruce. Very well appreciated.

Hello Richard.

In your car, the MAF/IAT has 5 wires also.

The IAT is wired at #4, which is [Blue/Red]. In this case, the hook up must be done like in the last drawing above, by cutting wire #4 (MAF side) and attaching one lead of the resistor on that same wire at ECU side.

The other resistor lead, must be connected to wire #5 (Brown), without disconnecting it from the MAF.

It is the same as the last drawing above. Just some colors change.

The pinout is as follows:

#1-Black/Red (MAF B+)
#2-Yellow/Green (MAF E2G)
#3-Green/White (MAF VG)
#4-Blue/Red (IAT)
#5-Brown (Ground)

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Max. I regret I don’t have any information on A3 models. The best way I can try to help you is showing below, the location of the IAT on the 2002 Audi A4.

May be the location on the A3 is the same or at leat, may give you a clue.

Best regards,

Richard

Hello PeaBodyX.

The seven wires are as follows (not in a exact order):

- Red / Black stripe (IAT)
- Black / Lt Green stripe (GND)
- Red (VAF)
- Lt Green / Red stripe (VREF)
- Black / White stripe (SigRET)
- Lt Green (DtaLNK)
- Black (DtaLNK GND)

As you can see, the IAT is wired to the first one in the list above (Red w/ Black stripe), so the resistor should be connected from there to the next one in the list, which is a ground (Black w/ Lt Green).

The first wire should be cut and the side that goes to the ecu is to be connected to one of the resistor’s leads and the other lead should be connected to the second wire (GND), whithout disconnecting it (No cutting) from the Flow Meter sensor.

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Gianluca. We don’t have much (almost nothing)) information on Peugeot models. But anyway, I will try to help. What model year is your car?

Hello Melo.

On that car, with a 3.3K – 3.7K resistor, you will simulate around 68F degrees (20C degrees).

The Honda Accord values are as follow:

-4F (-20C) = between 15K and 18K
68F (20C) = between 1K and 4K
176F (80C) = between 0.2K and 0.4K (200-400 ohms).

Good luck and thanks for reading.

Richard

Hello Aura. Thanks for reading.

About your 1995 Hyundai Elantra, the IAT is embedded with the MAF sensor which has 6 wires. The IAT is directly connected to wire #4 (Green/Blue) and #6 (Black/Green). The wiring is as follows:

Wire #1- Green / Red
Wire #2- Red
Wire #3- Green / White
Wire #4- Green / Blue (IAT #1)
Wire #5- Brown
Wire #6- Black / Green (IAT #2)

Best regards,

Richard

Aura, I am sorry. I forgot to write the resistance values.

Here they are:

Temperature Resistance
—————– —————–
32F (0C) 6K (6000 Ohms)
68F (20C) 2.7K (2700 Ohms)
176F (80C) 0.4K (400 Ohms)

Remember, the values don’t need to be exact. You can use commercial available resistors with approximate values. For example, for 6K, you can use 6.2K or 5.6K which are the closest available values.

Richard

Hello SAM.

We don’t have the information about the color code on that model, but we do have a picture of its configuration. The picture below will help you do the connection.

Thanks for reading,

Richard

Hello Thomas.

Thanks for reading.

I hope you have already read both articles on this blog about this topic.

About your comments, I do think it is a scam for three major reasons.

(1) You pay $15, $20 ,$30 or more for something disguised as high technology circuit box, when it is just a resistor which you can get for less than 50 cents, even less if you buy in large quantities. Now that this information is public, they are using fake circuits to sell their scam.

(2) There is not even a single case where the power gain using these boxes or resistors have been proved in a dynamometer (dyno). So if there is any gain, it is not noticeable, at least by instrumentation. What it is been proved so far is the placebo effect, that with the mere fact that something has been installed on the engine, people think they feel some gain at least.

(3) And the worst reason is that who sell these resistors disguised in fancy boxes, claim gains as large as 20, 30 and even 50 horsepower, which is a mere and blatant lie. Making such a statement is even an insult to customers looking at the “product”, like saying “I know you are dumb and will believe whatever crap I put in this sale”.

The reason I put the information and even help people find the facts for their cars, is for those who won’t just take my words and would like to try it anyway. That is an intelligent way of thinking and I am in favor of that, so the least I can do, having the knowledge, experience and information on hand, is to help them do it them selves without paying a dime to those scammers.

I am pretty sure that most of those who have tried so far, have realized that it is not worth it.

I invite all of them to leave their comments about this, as I am generalizing and may be it was worth doing for someone.

I hope that with the new FTC laws, those scammers with their fake testimonials are taken down, out of business, if that can be called a business.

Again, Thomas, thanks for reading and you are welcome to leave your comments any time.

Best regards,

Richard

The following comment was sent to me through email form Ian. I asked for permission for posting it here, so it can be shared for for the benefit of other readers and see “the both sides of the coin”.

——-

“Hi, I just bought an IAT “module” from Ebay for my 89 supra turbo. Inside as you state just a 12k resistor! IT WORKS!! on a supra anyway. I have put a switch on the side of the little plastic box so I can switch it ,on-off, When the weather is hot I guess. It was worth a fiver for the info. So there you go it will work on an old supra! Lev.”

Ian, thanks for your comments. In cases that people is satisfied with the results, like in your case, at least you could have saved some money just by reading the information here before buying.

I appreciate your comments very much,

Richard

Hello XenoGear.

The IAT on your Accord is located at the top-left rear of the intake manifold.

As per our records, it has two wires, (1) Green/Yellow and (2) Red/Yellow, where the first one is sensor ground and the second one is the IAT sensor output signal to the ecu (Red/Yellow).

Bellow is a drawing that might help locating the IAT.

Best regards,

Richard

I apologize for the delay to the other guys. The answers will be all combined here.

To Pete

Pete, in the 1995 BMW 325i, the flowmeter has 4 wires, which are:

1995 BMW 325i MAF Wiring:

1- Brown/Orange = Ground
2- Gray/Yellow = Sensor Signal
3- Red/White = 12v Batt Switched
4- Black = Sensor Signal Return

Please note that the fourth wire is the black one, but it is NOT ground. It is for the return of the MAF sensor signal. For ground use #1 (Brown/Orange) and for battery voltage, use #3 (Red/White).

Cheers.

To Hung

Hello Hung. As per our records, your Audi has 5 wires on the MAF, of which two are connected to the IAT. They are as follows:

MAF / IAT Sensor for 2003 Audi A4 3.0L V6

1- Black/White (Ground)
2- Green/Yellow
3- Yellow/Black
4- Green (IAT Signal)
5- Violet/Yellow

The resistor should be wired from #4 to #1 in the following way:

Cut #4, and the part that goes to the ecm (not the MAF) should be connected to one of the leads of the resistor.

Now, strip part of #1, but DO NOT disconnect it from the circuit. Then you should connect the other lead from the resistor there.

Please note that though the #1 is a ground, it is a ground that comes out from the ecm, so DO NOT use it as ground for other accessories and do not connect the resistor to any other ground but this one or you may burn your ecm.

Cheers

To Bobby

Ok bobby, returning the “product” or keeping it is up to you. I, at least, will shed some light about the connection in case you wish to try before returning it.

In the Toyota Tundra, the IAT is indeed inside the MAF, which has 5 wires and the connection is as follows (exactly as you described, by the way):

2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7L:

1- Red (12v)
2- Black/Yellow (MAF Sensor)
3- Red/Yellow (MAF Sensor)
4- Yellow/Green (IAT Sensor)
5- Black/White (Ground)

In this case, as in many others, the connection is cutting one wire and stripping another.

A- Cut #4 and the part that goes to the ecm is wired to one lead of the resistor.

B- Strip #5 and without cutting it or disconnecting it, wire the other lead of the resistor there.

Best regards to all and again, I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

Richard

XenoGear, Well if you mean the oxygen sensor (O2), then there are four of those. Two for each bank of 3 cylinders, one before and one after of the catalytic converter.

The pictures below will show you both banks, each with both its front and rear sensors with all color codes written.

Regards,

Richard

Of which one? If you see the diagram you will notice that you will end up with a total of 6 signal wires.
For example;

Bank 1, Sensor 1:
Signal A = Gray at the sensor, Blue at the connecting ribbon
Signal B = White at the sensor, Green at the connecting ribbon

And so on…

On each block, there is two wires for the heating resistor, on wire for power and one wire for signal output on bank2 and two wires for signal output on bank 1.

Please which one?

Tiburon GS, GT, SE, GT Limited, 2.0L, 2.7L, etc.

Cheers,

Richard

Thank you for that information Simon. Very appreciated.

Hello Sean.

Yes, in the 2004 Hyundai Elantra, the IAT sensor is embedded in the MAF sensor just like in many modern cars.

The MAF, which is in the air path duct, has a 5 wire connector, which configuration is as follows:

1- GREEN (GND)
2- WHITE
3- PINK
4- BLACK
5- YELLOW (IAT)

The IAT is wired to wire number 5 (YELLOW). Just put the resistor in series with that wire.

As for the resistance values, the IAT will give about 3.5K when it is at 68 Deg F (20 Deg C), so a 4.7K resistor will make it a little bit colder.

Good luck.

Richard

As we always say, the IAT modification will not necesarily work, but if it works, then you will need a much lower resistor, let’s say about 220 ohms, to make it “think” that temperature is higher than 100 Deg C, making it inject less fuel.

Again, this is just theory, so if you will do the try, do it with a 220 ohm resistor, which is RED, RED, BROWN rings, or check below for the calculator:

RESISTOR COLOR CODE CALCULATOR

Best regards,

Richard

Sean, one more thing I forgot to mention, since you want the opposite effect to what everyone else want, which is less fuel injection, hence lower resistance, then the 220 ohms resistor should be connected in parallel instead of series. Series connection will always make it higher, while parallel connection will do the opposite.

The resistor should be connected between wires #5 (IAT – YELLOW) and wire #1 (GND – GREEN) to simulate high temperatures.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Steve.

We do not currently have information on that model as it is quite new, but as many models use the same parts of other models, if you can provide the wiring colors of the MAF/IAT combination (5 or 6 wires), we might be able to help.

Regards,

Richard

Hey Marc. I apologize for the delay.

I was looking all around and have had no luck identifying a Ford model on USA that could be similar to get the data. The problem is that our database is based on American (USA) models and the Puma was not sold in USA. I came to the fact that it is equivalent to Ford Fiesta, but we have not that one either.

Do you happen to know any USA equivalent model? Or do you have the colors of the connector, so I can compare with the models I have. Right now, with small engines, there is the Escort and Taurus.

Just let me know.

Richard

Jose, I am sorry. I could not find any information on the 323. The nearest model might be the Protégé, but it has a separate IAT sensor, not embedded in a 5-wire MAF sensor.

If you know of any other Mazda model with similar setup (colors), I can try to find the information for that one.

Regards,

Richard

About your car Carlos, the IAT is separated from the MAF. The MAF should have 4 wires, but none is for the IAT.

The IAT is located in the air cleaner box and has its unique 2 wires.

Regards,

Richard

Ok Jose.

The information I have for the 1997 Miata, is indeed, an IAT inside the MAF, which have 5 wires as follows:

A- BLACK/BLUE – MAF
B- RED/BLACK – MAF Signal
C- RED/WHITE – IAT sensor
D- WHITE/RED – Ign. 12V
E- BLACK/LT GREEN – Ground

As you can see, the IAT is wired to wire “C” (RED/WHITE).

As the documentation, in this case, the IAT is not from this terminal to ground, but from this terminal to 12V (Term. “C” to Term. “D”).

So you may verify if this is correct, either by the colors of the wires or by measuring the IAT with an ohmmeter. To do this, you must have a reading of from about 2210 ohms to 2690 ohms between wires “C” and “D”. That’s at room temperature.

Good luck,

Richard

Hello Jerry.

I am sorry. I have been a little time off due to a lot of work and I even think that accidentally deleted one of the questions that one user asked when doing the spam cleanup of the website.

Ok, going back to your topic, I am glad that you did not buy that scam. For your 2003 Jeep Wrangler, there are Jet Performance chip modules (real chips), both stage 1 and stage 2 in the link below:

Jet Chips for Jeep Wrangler

I am NOT affiliated with the Jet Performance Company in any way. It is just that they produce many nice performance products for GM and Ford vehicles. However, they do are a bit pricey.

You may also try for your self the effect that the resistor in a box (”chip”) would have made if in doubt or just curious.

To do that, just take a 4700 ohms (4.7K) resistor (YELLOW, VIOLET, RED, GOLD) and connect it in series with the IAT sensor. That is, cut wire color BLACK/RED from the IAT sensor, located in the intake manifold plenum, near the throttle body, and connect each of the two cut ends of the wire, to each lead of the resistor. Remember, the IAT is stand alone and has two wires, BLACK/RED and BLACK/LT BLUE. Just cut BLACK/RED. Leave BLACK/LT BLUE wire intact.

About altitude, if it’s too high, oxygen in the air will be in less concentrations, making a bit less power than at sea level. About the modification, no variation will apply for being in high altitude, as the computer will do changes itself by using the barometric pressure sensor.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Bonnieblue03.

Yes, the IAT is in the MAF, which is wired directly to wire #4 (BLUE/BLACK). The configuration is as follows:

1- BLACK/WHITE … +B
2- BLUE/WHITE …. MAF1 (E2G)
3- RED ……….. MAF2 (VG)
4- BLUE/BLACK …. IAT
5- BROWN ……… E2 (Gnd)

Just cut wire #4 to a comfortable length, as both resulting ends will be used. Connect the two wires of your module to each one of the opened ends of the cut wire. Which wire is hooked with what end does not matter, as resistors have no polarity. In other words, just put the module in series or tandem with the IAT wire. Check below.

I hope it helps.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Dave.

On your 2006 Ford Focus, as mentioned, the MAF has 6 wires, where the IAT is independently connected to wire #1 (WHITE/VIOLET) and wire #2 (BROWN/WHITE).

The configuration is as follows:

1- WHITE VIOLET ……… IAT 1
2- BROWN/WHITE ………. IAT 2
3- BROWN/BLUE
4- GREEN/RED
5- WHITE/BLUE
6- BLACK/ORANGE

You may connect your resistor or module on either wire #1 or #2 and the effect will be the same, as long as the device you are adding is connected in series (tandem). Check below.

I hope it helps.

Richard

Bonnieblue03, if you look closely to the picture, the wire been spliced is #4, which is THA (IAT), not E2. Wire E2 (#5) is the chassis ground and it is left intact.

Wires on #4 and #5 are crossing, not connecting, and yes, only wire #4 must be spliced. That way, the module or resistor will be in series with the IAT. It is even better than just replacing the IAT, as it will set a colder reading and any variation in the IAT will add to module or resistor value in ohms.

Regards,

Richard

@bonnieblue02 – No problem my friend, but please be prepared and don’t be disappointed if you still don’t feel any difference even doing it the right way.

That is why I am disclosing the information here for free. In some cars, some little change might be noticed, but in most cars, the improvement is none. So I put the information here together so people may try it by their own for free, and not by a scammer charging money and promising 10hp, 20hp, 30hp or as high as 50hp gains when there is not even 0.5hp gains in 99.9% of the cases.

Good luck.

Richard

“I am looking for 2009 honda accord V6 IAT sensor wiring diagram. The module is in with the MAF.(5 wires) Which 2 colored wires are for the IAT? Thanks
John”

John, please check for your reply on this thread:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/iat-resistor-mods-vs-performance-modules-vs-real-chips/comment-page-3#comment-106590

Regards,

Richard

“hi, i have zafira 2002 with Siemen 90530463 / 5WK9606,like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OPEL-OMEGA-VECTRA-2-2-AIRFLOW-METER-90530463-90-530-463-/310278087600?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item483e03e3b0#ht_1373wt_907
what type for rsistor and which cable i connect my friend ?”

I regret I can not help. We do not have information on the Zafira model. Our database is from US Market cars. If there is another Chevy model that uses that MAF, just let me know so I can check the information and post it here.

Regards,

Richard

“So.. which IAT modules do we want to NOT buy? Which ones are a rip-off?
“

Bonnieblue03, all IAT modifications sold as a “performance chip” or sold as to gain +20hp, +50hp, etc., are scams.

Whenever a seller is asking for money for a “product” that does not work as claimed, it is a scam.

Doing the IAT modification to your car, will not help in performance at all in 99% of cases.

I am just providing a free alternative to try it your self if you are in doubt and not by paying $30 – $100 for a resistor enclosed in a box.

As I mentioned in the article, don’t just take my word. Read the article, learn how to do it and try it by yourself.

Best regards,

Richard

“Same question, what color wires for 2004 Toyota Tundra 4.7 v8 ??
“

Hello Dave.

The MAF in your Tundra should have 5 wires. The IAT is connected to wire #2 (YELLOW/GREEN). The configuration is as follows:

1- BLACK/WHITE
2- YELLOW/GREEN (IAT)
3- RED
4- BLACK/YELLOW
5- RED/WHITE

Best regards,

Richard

@Bob Hooper:

I am sorry Bob. I have not much technical information on the 2004 X5. We do know that BMW takes almost the maximum out of their cars, so I don’t really think that an IAT resistor would do any difference. I would share the info but as I mentioned, I regret I don’t have it.

Regards,

Richard

@Chris O

In your Infiniti, as you already mentioned, the IAT is wire #5 (YELLOW/GREEN). Just put the resistor in series with the IAT, like in the drawing below.

Cheers.

@ DJ Pound.

Hello DJ. The information we have is that there are 6 wires comming out of the MAF in the 1987 Toyota Supra. They are:

WHITE/BLACK (GND)
GREEN (Ckt Opening Relay)
BLUE/RED (+12V)
BROWN
LT GREEN/RED (MAF Output)
LT GREEN (IAT)

@Tim L

Hello Tim. I se you are looking for the IAT connection on the MAF. Well, the colors for the 2008 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0L, as you said, are as follows:

2- LT GREEN
3- BLACK
4- PINK
5- BROWN (IAT)
6- BLACK

The one you said is RED, it really is PINK, as our database.

Anyway, the connection is BROWN (IAT) and any black (GROUND), as both are connected together, as you will see in the diagram below.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Tim

Here in this blog, I just like to help as much as I can and when I have the time with technical topics, specially automotive topics.

Some friends and I, sell some automotive products as a team at http://www.OtherDeal.com.

We do not sell any IAT related modification. We prefer to share the information so people can try it by their selves, as we do not think it is a true performance product. We think that asking for money for any IAT modification would be scamming people as those modules are mostly a simple resistor boxed in a fancy way.

Some others contain a whole circuit that does nothing. They just run two wires connected to a resistor in that “dummy” circuit. They do it that way because people are starting noticing about the resistor scam and a dummy circuit will disguise it.

All the best,

Richard

Hello Peter.

The information we have is for the 2006 Hummer H3 with 3.5L engine.

The IAT resistor is inside the MAF sensor assembly. The MAF sensor has 5 wires, of which, 2 are for the IAT sensor (wire “D” TANGERINE and wire “E” BLACK).

The TANGERINE wire is the one to modify.

The configuration is the following:

A- YELLOW
B- BLACK/WHITE
C- PINK
D- TANGERINE (IAT Signal)
E- BLACK (IAT Ground)

Best regards,

Richard

Well guys, I have been out for long time. I’ve been Very busy lately with the services we offer at OtherDeal.com.

I will try to answer the best I can. Some are late questions and some are recent. I hope it is not too late for some of you.

@Yann:

Yes, the IAT in your car is YELLOW/BLACK and BROWN. Just put the resistor in series (tandem) with the IAT. Do so by opening (cutting) either wire and leaving the other intact. The wire you cut, connect each of the two resulting wire ends, on each lead of the resistor.

About specific resistor, a 4.7K would be ok (yellow/violet/red/gold).
For calculating color codes of the resistor you may use the link below:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/simple-resistor-color-code-calculator

@Jose

Jose, in your Accord, the IAT is separated form the MAF sensor. It is located at the Top-Left-Rear area of the intake manifold. It has two wires; GREEN/YELLOW and RED/YELLOW. Just hook the resistor to any one of those wires. For it, you cut either wire and hook the two resulting ends to each lead of the resistor.

Good luck.

@David

We currently have not the Accord 2010 information, but all Accords we have the information (up to 2007), the IAT is wired to RED/YELLOW and GREEN wires. In most models, it should be wire #1 and #2. Anyway, before doing anything, you may try by measuring the resistance between those two wires. If it is (at cool temperature) 1000 to 3000 Ohms (1k to 3K), then it is the IAT. If it is a hot day or the engine was just run, that value will shift down a little and the opposite if it is a cold day.

I am sorry I couldn’t help better.

@Bo

You are right. It is TANGERINE (D) and BLACK (E). About the item, it is not a chip, but a resistor or any electronic part or circuit that offers an equal resistance. About if they work, well, I would say that 99% of the cases it does not. I have to leave a 1% out because who knows, may be there is a car where it will do some little thing, but not even a single horsepower.

@Loni.B

Do you mean the wiring color codes? If so, the colors are as follows:

1. BROWN/BLUE (IAT)
2. BLUE/YELLOW
3. BROWN/BLUE (MAF)
4. VIOLET/RED (MAF)
5. BLUE (MAF)

The IAT is wire #1 (BROWN/BLUE).

If that is not the information that you requested, just let me know.

Cheers to all.

Bruce,

If it’s about the IAT, then it is embedded inside the MAF sensor.

The MAF sensor in the 2006 Ford Expedition has 6 wires and the IAT is wired to #1 (GRAY) and #2 (GREY/RED). The code is as follows:

1. GRAY (IAT 1)
2. GRAY/RED (IAT 2)
3. LT BLUE/RED (MAF)
4. TANGERINE/LT BLUE
5. BLACK/WHITE
6. RED/YELLOW

Regards.

Hello Lee.

I am sorry. I do not have the information of the G37, but I guess it is the same as in other Nissan/Infiniti. Can you tell me the colors of the 5 wires in order (any order, left to right or right to left)?

Hello PerezJosue

The MAF sensor in the 2004 Nissan Pathfinder with 3.5L engine,
has 5 wires and includes an internal IAT sensor. It has the
following configuration:

2. BLACK/WHITE (B+)
3. BLACK/PINK (Gnd)
4. ORANGE (MAF)
5. BLACK/PINK (IAT)
6. BLACK/PINK (Gnd)

Wire #1 is either cut, not present or not documented, making it
5 wires in total.

Wire #5 above is the IAT. Make sure you use the right wire, as there
are three wires with the same color (BLACK/PINK) and two of them are
grounded.

Best regards,

Richard

Hello Cybermonster.

Here I am. Work load is been huge lately, making it a little bit difficult to reply to requests on time and when I finally have the time, I regret that in your case I have bad news. I can look up to 2007 models and some from 2008. I have not updated the database and Camaro is not in the list on 2007/2008. I was trying to look for a possible similar setup, but no luck so far.

I am sorry I couldn’t help.

Richard

Hello Oliver.

I am sorry, I would love to help you, but diesel models are not listed in my database. It is for USA models and diesel engine passenger or family cars are very rare in this market.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Fred.

For the Pathfinder of that year, I can only see a 5 wires assembly MAF, where two of them are power (+12v), one is the IAT, one is the MAF signal itself and the other one is sensor power (+5v).

The configuration is as follows (it’s made of 5 wires, but somehow it starts with #2 in the diagram):

2. BLACK/WHITE – Sensor Power
3. BLACK/PINK – Ground (-)
4. Orange – MAF Signal QA+
5. BLACK/PINK – IAT Signal
6. BLACK/PINK – Ground (-)

Make sure you do not confuse wires, as there are three of them with the same color “BLACK/PINK”.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Jon.

It depends on the system on board of your Honda, but most cars use the MAF for calculating how much fuel will be injected in normal driving situations, as to keep the mixture near to 14.7:1 as much as possible and the only way to precisely do that is by knowing how much air by mass (not by volume, as volume is not as precise) is entering the engine.

Not knowing how much air is incoming, you really have no way of knowing how much fuel to deliver. Speed density, which is the mode you described, use RPMs (engine speed) and if possible, manifold absolute pressure (MAP sensor) to inject fuel by some preset parameters, like fuel and ignition maps. It is most used in compensating for acceleration (WOT tables), but will switch off when cruising. This can only be overridden by programming, by someone who knows what he or she is doing.

In general, no matter what the physics laws apply here, the truth is that by default, the ECM computer will cut acceleration as it is doing right now when you disconnect the MAF, because it is detecting a malfunction caused by the absence of the sensor.

“What are the implications of running w/o a MAF?”

If the ECU would not be detecting the malfunction, implications would be the same implications for running too lean or too rich, usually (and fortunately), too rich. You know, lots of black smoke and harmful emissions.

Regards,

Richard

Hello Ivan.

As mentioned to other members, my database goes up only to 2007 and some 2008 models, but if your Fusion is like the 2007 Ford Fusion, then the configurations is below. Just make sure that wire colors match. If they do, then it applies to the 2009 model too. First of all, it must be 6 wires in the MAF, as follows:

1. VIOLET/GRAY – IAT
2. YELLOW/VIOLET – Control signal return
3. BLUE/GRAY – MAF signal
4. VIOLET/BROWN – MAF signal return
5. BLACK/GREEN – Ground (-)
6. either VIOLET or VIOLET/GRAY – Power (+)

All these thermistors used as IAT sensor have similar properties, ranging in cold temperatures from 3,300 ohms (3.3K) to 10,000 ohms (10K), so start from the lowest to the highest value for your experiment. Values between those limits are also good to try, maybe by the use of a 10K variable resistor (potentiometer) in series with a 3.3K resistor, so the output value keeps between 3.3K and 13.3K.

Regards,

Richard