I am glad to help. I just hope that you don’t be disappointed if the IAT mod doesn’t do anything. I mean, be mentally prepared as we are just giving away this information in an attempt to stop people scamming on eBay and now beyond eBay. This is provided as an option for people who want to try the IAT resistor modification anyway, so they can do it without paying a pennie to those scammers.

Soon we will be posting the info on the color codes for resistors as a complement. While it is done, you will easily find that information on Google or Wikipedia.

Regards,

Richard

Step out from those placebo resistors! Get high quality performance chips at:

http://www.OtherDeal.com

Hello. I am amazed that many people still have success selling such a rip off and they don’t even send installing instructions.

Your info is as follows:

The IAT sensor in the 2004 Nissan Altima is embedded with the MAF sensor.

The MAF sensor is located in the incoming air path at the left side (driver’s side) of the engine compartment.

The MAF has 5 wires on its connector and the IAT is directly wired to the wire #5, which color is YELLOW with GREEN.

The resistor can be wired from that wire #5 to any of the two black wires in the same connector, which are #3 and #6 (Yes, it has 5 wires, but for some reason they are numbered 2,3,4,5 and 6).

Please remember, one lead of the resistor is wired to one of the black wires, but the black wire is NOT cut or disconnected from the MAF sensor. Otherwise you will cut an important ground connection needed by this sensor, making possible erratic behavior of the vehicle.

The other resistor lead is wired to the #5, and the wire must be cut from the MAF, leaving enough length on the wire that goes to the MAF, so it can be reconnected in any future time you wish to do so. Just cover it with electrical tape or a wire nut.

I am sorry, but at this moment I have no picture for this, but the connection will be something similar to what is explained in the pictured diagram on the following Ford article:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=368

By the way, I don’t know what you bought, but typical resistance values for the IAT of the 2004 Nissan Altima is as follows:

14 F (-10 C) = 7900 – 9300 Ohms
77 F (25 C) = 1900 – 2100 Ohms
176 F (80 C) = 310 – 370 Ohms

Good luck,

Richard

Desertdude:

The incoming air temperature read by the ecu, will be altered (fooled) by the resistor replacing the IAT and this false registered temperature will depend on the amount of the resistance.

Please check the first article on this on the link below:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=64

Regards,

Richard

Your welcome Xakep

Hello Aj.

Yes, in the Fusion, there are 6 wires in the MAF, of which, the internal IAT is wired to #1 (Violet/Gray) and #5 (Black/Green).

In this case, the connection must be done by opening (cutting) wire #1 and connecting one lead of the resistor to the part of the cut wire that goes to the ecu and the other resistor lead must be connected to wire #5, without cutting it from the MAF.

For a clearer idea on using a switch to be able to select between “Normal” and “Mod”, you may check this image:

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Aj.

Well, electrically, it is possible. You can use a toggle switch, putting its common terminal to the IAT wire that goes to the ecu and then select any of the three possible positions, being them, (1) one connector to the normal IAT on the MAF, and the other two to a couple of resistor values, (2) one for rich and (3) one for lean.

As you may have noticed, it will take one three way switch and two resistors, not just one.

Check the picture below:

It all depends on your car. If you are getting any change in performance, consumption, fueling or ignition, then you are on your way. Otherwise, it will be a waste of time.

Best regards,

Richard

Hello Duck.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the information on the 2010 model, but if like it is been happening so far, the MAF from a prior model might have the same configuration.

I have the information on the MAF for the 2008 Tundra. The only thing is that it is supposed to be 4.7L instead of 4.6L as you mentioned.

Anyway, the MAF from the 2008 model has 5 wires, on which the IAT is connected to wire #4 (Yellow/Black), so the connection should be made in the same manner as the other ones explained on this article, across that wire #4 and a ground reference, which is wire #5 (Brown).

In a note apart from the topic, eBay buyers like you should take action and leave a negative feedback to these sellers as this is dishonest business and sellers know it. Most of them are kids selling a concept that doesn’t work and once they have your money, as in this case, they don’t even give installation instructions.

I think that the word should be spread and tell people about this article so they don’t get fooled. I am not selling the idea nor the instructions or even asking for money for information on this blog. Just giving people the choice to do it their selves if they have any doubt on if this either works or not, without being ripped off.

Well excuse me for this. Good luck on your project.

Thanks for reading this article,

Richard

Thanks for your comments Bruce. Very well appreciated.

Hello Richard.

In your car, the MAF/IAT has 5 wires also.

The IAT is wired at #4, which is [Blue/Red]. In this case, the hook up must be done like in the last drawing above, by cutting wire #4 (MAF side) and attaching one lead of the resistor on that same wire at ECU side.

The other resistor lead, must be connected to wire #5 (Brown), without disconnecting it from the MAF.

It is the same as the last drawing above. Just some colors change.

The pinout is as follows:

#1-Black/Red (MAF B+)
#2-Yellow/Green (MAF E2G)
#3-Green/White (MAF VG)
#4-Blue/Red (IAT)
#5-Brown (Ground)

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Max. I regret I don’t have any information on A3 models. The best way I can try to help you is showing below, the location of the IAT on the 2002 Audi A4.

May be the location on the A3 is the same or at leat, may give you a clue.

Best regards,

Richard

Hello PeaBodyX.

The seven wires are as follows (not in a exact order):

- Red / Black stripe (IAT)
- Black / Lt Green stripe (GND)
- Red (VAF)
- Lt Green / Red stripe (VREF)
- Black / White stripe (SigRET)
- Lt Green (DtaLNK)
- Black (DtaLNK GND)

As you can see, the IAT is wired to the first one in the list above (Red w/ Black stripe), so the resistor should be connected from there to the next one in the list, which is a ground (Black w/ Lt Green).

The first wire should be cut and the side that goes to the ecu is to be connected to one of the resistor’s leads and the other lead should be connected to the second wire (GND), whithout disconnecting it (No cutting) from the Flow Meter sensor.

Cheers,

Richard

Hello Gianluca. We don’t have much (almost nothing)) information on Peugeot models. But anyway, I will try to help. What model year is your car?

Hello Melo.

On that car, with a 3.3K – 3.7K resistor, you will simulate around 68F degrees (20C degrees).

The Honda Accord values are as follow:

-4F (-20C) = between 15K and 18K
68F (20C) = between 1K and 4K
176F (80C) = between 0.2K and 0.4K (200-400 ohms).

Good luck and thanks for reading.

Richard

Hello Aura. Thanks for reading.

About your 1995 Hyundai Elantra, the IAT is embedded with the MAF sensor which has 6 wires. The IAT is directly connected to wire #4 (Green/Blue) and #6 (Black/Green). The wiring is as follows:

Wire #1- Green / Red
Wire #2- Red
Wire #3- Green / White
Wire #4- Green / Blue (IAT #1)
Wire #5- Brown
Wire #6- Black / Green (IAT #2)

Best regards,

Richard

Aura, I am sorry. I forgot to write the resistance values.

Here they are:

Temperature Resistance
—————– —————–
32F (0C) 6K (6000 Ohms)
68F (20C) 2.7K (2700 Ohms)
176F (80C) 0.4K (400 Ohms)

Remember, the values don’t need to be exact. You can use commercial available resistors with approximate values. For example, for 6K, you can use 6.2K or 5.6K which are the closest available values.

Richard

Hello SAM.

We don’t have the information about the color code on that model, but we do have a picture of its configuration. The picture below will help you do the connection.

Thanks for reading,

Richard

Hello Thomas.

Thanks for reading.

I hope you have already read both articles on this blog about this topic.

About your comments, I do think it is a scam for three major reasons.

(1) You pay $15, $20 ,$30 or more for something disguised as high technology circuit box, when it is just a resistor which you can get for less than 50 cents, even less if you buy in large quantities. Now that this information is public, they are using fake circuits to sell their scam.

(2) There is not even a single case where the power gain using these boxes or resistors have been proved in a dynamometer (dyno). So if there is any gain, it is not noticeable, at least by instrumentation. What it is been proved so far is the placebo effect, that with the mere fact that something has been installed on the engine, people think they feel some gain at least.

(3) And the worst reason is that who sell these resistors disguised in fancy boxes, claim gains as large as 20, 30 and even 50 horsepower, which is a mere and blatant lie. Making such a statement is even an insult to customers looking at the “product”, like saying “I know you are dumb and will believe whatever crap I put in this sale”.

The reason I put the information and even help people find the facts for their cars, is for those who won’t just take my words and would like to try it anyway. That is an intelligent way of thinking and I am in favor of that, so the least I can do, having the knowledge, experience and information on hand, is to help them do it them selves without paying a dime to those scammers.

I am pretty sure that most of those who have tried so far, have realized that it is not worth it.

I invite all of them to leave their comments about this, as I am generalizing and may be it was worth doing for someone.

I hope that with the new FTC laws, those scammers with their fake testimonials are taken down, out of business, if that can be called a business.

Again, Thomas, thanks for reading and you are welcome to leave your comments any time.

Best regards,

Richard

The following comment was sent to me through email form Ian. I asked for permission for posting it here, so it can be shared for for the benefit of other readers and see “the both sides of the coin”.

——-

“Hi, I just bought an IAT “module” from Ebay for my 89 supra turbo. Inside as you state just a 12k resistor! IT WORKS!! on a supra anyway. I have put a switch on the side of the little plastic box so I can switch it ,on-off, When the weather is hot I guess. It was worth a fiver for the info. So there you go it will work on an old supra! Lev.”

Ian, thanks for your comments. In cases that people is satisfied with the results, like in your case, at least you could have saved some money just by reading the information here before buying.

I appreciate your comments very much,

Richard

Hello XenoGear.

The IAT on your Accord is located at the top-left rear of the intake manifold.

As per our records, it has two wires, (1) Green/Yellow and (2) Red/Yellow, where the first one is sensor ground and the second one is the IAT sensor output signal to the ecu (Red/Yellow).

Bellow is a drawing that might help locating the IAT.

Best regards,

Richard

I apologize for the delay to the other guys. The answers will be all combined here.

To Pete

Pete, in the 1995 BMW 325i, the flowmeter has 4 wires, which are:

1995 BMW 325i MAF Wiring:

1- Brown/Orange = Ground
2- Gray/Yellow = Sensor Signal
3- Red/White = 12v Batt Switched
4- Black = Sensor Signal Return

Please note that the fourth wire is the black one, but it is NOT ground. It is for the return of the MAF sensor signal. For ground use #1 (Brown/Orange) and for battery voltage, use #3 (Red/White).

Cheers.

To Hung

Hello Hung. As per our records, your Audi has 5 wires on the MAF, of which two are connected to the IAT. They are as follows:

MAF / IAT Sensor for 2003 Audi A4 3.0L V6

1- Black/White (Ground)
2- Green/Yellow
3- Yellow/Black
4- Green (IAT Signal)
5- Violet/Yellow

The resistor should be wired from #4 to #1 in the following way:

Cut #4, and the part that goes to the ecm (not the MAF) should be connected to one of the leads of the resistor.

Now, strip part of #1, but DO NOT disconnect it from the circuit. Then you should connect the other lead from the resistor there.

Please note that though the #1 is a ground, it is a ground that comes out from the ecm, so DO NOT use it as ground for other accessories and do not connect the resistor to any other ground but this one or you may burn your ecm.

Cheers

To Bobby

Ok bobby, returning the “product” or keeping it is up to you. I, at least, will shed some light about the connection in case you wish to try before returning it.

In the Toyota Tundra, the IAT is indeed inside the MAF, which has 5 wires and the connection is as follows (exactly as you described, by the way):

2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7L:

1- Red (12v)
2- Black/Yellow (MAF Sensor)
3- Red/Yellow (MAF Sensor)
4- Yellow/Green (IAT Sensor)
5- Black/White (Ground)

In this case, as in many others, the connection is cutting one wire and stripping another.

A- Cut #4 and the part that goes to the ecm is wired to one lead of the resistor.

B- Strip #5 and without cutting it or disconnecting it, wire the other lead of the resistor there.

Best regards to all and again, I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

Richard

XenoGear, Well if you mean the oxygen sensor (O2), then there are four of those. Two for each bank of 3 cylinders, one before and one after of the catalytic converter.

The pictures below will show you both banks, each with both its front and rear sensors with all color codes written.

Regards,

Richard

Of which one? If you see the diagram you will notice that you will end up with a total of 6 signal wires.
For example;

Bank 1, Sensor 1:
Signal A = Gray at the sensor, Blue at the connecting ribbon
Signal B = White at the sensor, Green at the connecting ribbon

And so on…

On each block, there is two wires for the heating resistor, on wire for power and one wire for signal output on bank2 and two wires for signal output on bank 1.

Please which one?

Tiburon GS, GT, SE, GT Limited, 2.0L, 2.7L, etc.

Cheers,

Richard

Thank you for that information Simon. Very appreciated.