immobilizer security indicator

How do I know if my 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 has immobilizer (immo)?

The immobilizer system, also known just as “immo”, is an automotive security system integrated into many vehicles since the 1980s and it has become more sophisticated with the years. It is installed in some 2001, 2002 and 2003 Toyota RAV4 cars, but not in all of them (from those years). If the immobilizer is present or not in your Toyota Rav4, it is not identifiable from the model number, or by its trim identifiers (Rav4, Rav4 L, etc.), nor in the VIN number and definitely not in the ECM part number either.

 

 

While we do not know the criteria used by the manufacturer for identifying which vehicles have it or not, we do know that it can be told if the immobilizer is enabled or disabled in a particular Rav4 model among years 2001, 2002, and 2003, simply by looking for the presence or absence of a fuse, or better, “a short pin”, as called by Toyota, but since it resembles a fuse in size and shape, we will call it a “fuse” in this article.

 

Location of the fuse box

 

There is a fuse box inside the vehicle cab and another one in the engine compartment. The one we will look for is the one located in the engine compartment.

 

Open the hood of your Toyota Rav4 and standing in front of the engine, you will see the fuse box at the right, near the fender, with a black plastic cover. Below is a picture of it and a drawing further below for easier identification.

 

Engine compartment fuse box of 2001-2003 Toyota Rav4 (4)

 

Engine compartment fuse box of 2001-2003 Toyota Rav4

 

Location of the immobilizer fuse

 

Lift the cover of the plastic box (fuse box) by depressing a clip on the front side of it. You will see something like in the picture below (probably with less dirt). In that picture, you can see a red arrow pointing to the location of the fuse we are referring to. When you see the layout legend in the reverse of the fusebox cap, you will notice that it is the only fuse that has no reference. I won’t say “immobilizer” or anything because it is part of the vehicle’s security system when installed.

 

Engine compartment fuse box of 2001-2003 Toyota Rav4 (2)

The fuse is shown again in the drawing below. If that fuse is present, then the immobilizer system should be enabled in your Rav4. The job of that fuse is to supply power to the immobilizer system circuit. If the fuse is NOT present, it is an indication of the immobilizer not enabled in your vehicle. However, we are assuming here that the fuse box hasn’t been tampered with.

 

Engine compartment fuse box of 2001-2003 Toyota Rav4 (3)

Related Problems

 

There is a chance that a fuse was placed or removed by mistake by a mechanic or anybody else working with it. A mechanic, for example, could possibly think that not having that fuse in place might have something to do with whatever the problem your vehicle is showing and decides to install a fuse in that place. After that, the vehicle will not start until the fuse is taken out.

 

Also, it is a common case that if the mentioned fuse box gets damaged or burned by a short circuit and it is replaced by a brand new one, the new fuse box will ALWAYS have a fuse in that location. If your car is not meant to have a fuse there, your car will not start after the replacement of the box. Even if using a recycled fuse box, it may come opposite from your car’s case (with or without immobilizer) and it won’t start either. So if your car is not starting, the first step is to try starting the vehicle with and without that fuse. Just make sure you are working with the exact fuse location as indicated in the drawings.

 

There is a more technical way to make sure about the immobilizer status of your Rav4. It consists of scanning your car with a special Toyota tool which will tell the status of the immobilizer. Another way is taking out the engine computer (ECM) and reading the immobilizer memory chip. From that reading, assuming that the ECM is the original one from the vehicle, then any experienced technician can tell if the immobilizer system is enabled or disabled in that vehicle just by looking at the pattern of that file.

 

In Continental USA, we have hardly seen any 2001-2003 RAV4 with the immobilizer system enabled, while in Puerto Rico and in Hawaii, it is enabled in all Rav4 vehicles of those model years. In some other countries, it is enabled too, like in Germany, Grenada, and Norway, just to name a few.

 

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30 Comments

  • Derek A. Gumbs says:

    Great results I had a no start condition on a Raf4 2009. Did the research found your post followed the instructions took the immobiliser fuse out and I am good to go!!

    2
  • Mark says:

    i have a rav 4 2002 model and i have no power getting to the electric windows
    can you please help by sending me a picture of the fuse box and the fuse where the problem maybe with to be able to fix

    1
  • zilog357 says:

    Hello Mark. Unfortunately, the diagram we have is for the ECM wiring, which does not cover the other electrical system. We had a computer crash where all the diagrams were stored. Later in this month, all will be restored. As soon as it is done, if you still need the diagram, I will send it to you.

    I am sorry I couldn’t help right now.

    1
  • tom horn says:

    why would my 2003 rava 4 act like the breaks is on and tight? In 2-3 -r is ok. when driven in drive at 15+- mph and put trans. in low the car wants just stop and stop like the breaks are on somewhat like puttin on the breaks. had the ecm worked on and put in a new sidnold on transmission –thank you

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hello Tom. The transmission must be diagnosed because of the symptoms you described.

    The ECM could be at fault too since there is where problems with the transmission start. The ECM fails and if it is not repaired or replaced on time, then the transmission fails too.

    Start by checking the level and clarity of the transmission fluid (ATF) to have an idea of how is the mechanical condition of it.

    1
  • mike woods says:

    hell Tom Horn Your gonna like what I’m about to tell you since I already had the same problem as your having with my 2003 RAV4 with 160,000 miles it started to have an issue that I called the emergency brake on sensation it would not happen at start up but when warm and it was in no particular schedule it was random and then ai would leave the car cool down and it was fine again I heard the same transmission oh it’s the ecu after some though I remember I just changed the 2 upstream air/fuel mixture sensors as well as the 2.downstewam o2 sensors after a check engine and a code stating the heaters.in the air/fuel sensors was malfunctioning so now I’m really thinking and I know I just figured out what 3 or for professional mechanics could not what if the car was running to rich due to the faulty air fuel sensors and from this had been dumping unburned fuel down the catalytic converter hmmm I said it would lock it so I bought a new catalytic converter from Amazon something mid grade $200 bucks had it installed problem solved never would I thought a converter would do an cause these problems but ya they can so I hope this helps

    1
  • Serena Humphries says:

    Hi how do I find out if my 2000 Toyota Camroad (Japanese import) has an immobiliser??
    Any help or suggestions would be appreciated

    1
  • Nemat says:

    I have RAV2003 and the it us not working well , technical guy told me the engine control has issue , how can I check and confirm it

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hello.

    Thank you for your comment.

    Have you or a technician scanned the car? What issues is the car having? Problems with the engine? Problems with the transmission?

    1
  • Peter says:

    I have a 1980 Toyota rav4. Changed the diesel filter. Now it won’t start.
    Field filter up,pump fuel to filter.
    Cracked eject.
    Thinking maybe immobiliser.
    Any suggestions please!

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    My friend, the Toyota Rav4 was introduced in 1994 (1996 in the USA). Diesel models where introduced further after that.

    So maybe you are referring to another car? Anyway, I left your comment here in case some good soul can help, because here in the USA, we do not have the diesel models, and because of that, I could not help you with technical assistance. I hope someone else can help.

    Kind regards

    1
  • Frank K says:

    I have a 2001 RAV4 and I just replaced the battery. The old battery was fine but winter is coming and it was 2 years old so I thot I would replace it. Besides I needed a battery for an old gas golf cart so I thot I could use my old battery there.
    All dash lights seem to be working, after market radio works and remembered settings, the electric windows work and the doors lock/unlock with the fob. Both keys I have are remakes. The starter turns the motor over just like before but the engine will not fire. I’ve tried a number of remedies from help lines and blogs but no luck. I checked all fuses and even tried the old battery again. It will not start. No fuse in the immobilizer slot. Help?

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hello Frank. I can only think of two scenarios. The most common, an aftermarket security system (not the immobilizer), most likely an alarm, that needs to be reset. This happens often with some security systems when the battery is disconnected or replaced.

    The second scenario, not as common as the one above, but I have seen it several times, is that somehow the code in the immobilizer memory was corrupted. You see, your car always have the immobilizer circuit built in. The difference is that the code in its memory is different, depending on if the car has the immobilizer enabled or disabled. In either case, if the code in its memory gets corrupted, the engine will crank but will not fire.

    In the first case, you will need the manual of the alarm system to see how to reset it. In the second case the only way around is reprogramming the immobilizer chip of your car’s ECM.

    Of course, it can be something else, but given the events you describe, I cannot think of anything else and most likely, it is #1.

    I hope this helps.

    1
  • Frank K says:

    The door remote lock/unlock that I thot was factory is actually an Auto mate RPN 476A. Could this be part of my security system that’s preventing me from starting the RAV4? If so do you know how to reset it to make my car start again?
    Thanks,

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    It could be, but unfortunately, I do not have the information for that system. If the key fob seems to be working (locks/unlocks), then try with the remote to see if there is any key combination for that purpose. As a side note, most alarm systems block the starter from running. If your car’s starter is cranking ok, then there is a possibility of the issue being something else.

    1
  • Frank K says:

    Richard,
    I tried several remedies that I found online with no luck. The Automate recorded line suggested disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then reconnecting positive first then negative (in reverse order of what Toyota recommends.) I tried this and it didn’t work. I spoke to a human there on Monday who really didn’t care what my problem was. He wouldn’t speak unless I asked questions or presented scenarios. Duh, No help. Their website listed several installers none of which had heard of Automate. More no help. I finally spoke with a local installer who knew of them but didn’t believe the security system to be the problem. Good listener tho.
    Finally I disconnected the battery for a few hours and reconnected pos then neg. The alarm went off and the car started. I drove around for 10 minutes and parked the car. The next day no start. As usual with this problem the starter would turn the motor but it wouldn’t start. Somehow I believed that I was on the right track so I disconnected the battery for over 8 hours and then reconnected pos then neg. The car has been running ever since. I’m still shaking my head.🤪
    Sorry for the long winded note but I tried to be brief. It’s a long damn story and I have more info too. Thanks for your help with my 20 year old system!
    Frank

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hey Frank! I am glad that you could sort it out ( fingers crossed 🙂 )

    I hope it doesn’t give you any further problem.

    I am surprised that you even managed to speak to a human from Automate. As you experienced, those large companies are more into selling than giving any helpful support.

    Thanks goes to you for sharing your solution. I am sure that more than one person facing a similar problem with his/her car will benefit from it.

    Cheers! 🙂

    1
  • langton machingauta says:

    I tried several times I remove fuse for the first he starts and I just drive for 3 days and comes back security indicator light for Toyota RAV4 2001 ex-uk

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hello Langton. This is a permanent thing. You mentioned that you have tried several times. If the fuse is OUT, as long as the vehicle DOES NOT have immobilizer, it will start and run. If the fuse is IN, then the contrary, it will start and run as long as IT HAS the immobilizer system enabled and well programmed.

    If you try this and the car stops starting after 3 days, either there is a problem in other area, or I did not understand the details if your description. I see it as that you put or took out the fuse and it started and then it died after 3 days. Is this it?

  • Saikou says:

    I have rave 4 2002 petrol Automatic there is no communication and it’s not starting only crank

  • RICHARD says:

    Have you check the fuse location described in this article? Remember; (1) no immobilizer = no fuse used, or (2) has immobilizer = needs a fuse. If done otherwise = no start. So if for example, there is no fuse, you must be sure that your keys are NOT transponder keys (no chip). You know, to rule out the possibility of one believing that it does not have the immobilizer system and surprisingly it does, or the contrary.

    Other than that, is the “security” light flashing? Did the ECM got flooded or has any damage? I ask you this because you mentioned that there is no communication and that could be a damage in the ECM or its wiring, especially, the ground connections.

  • Michael Moore says:

    Hi Richard,
    You are truly a gentleman with your help with Rav4 owners problems.
    Now I have a problem with my 2005 Rav4 1.8L Petrol and I hope you might be able to help.
    I was having the engine management light coming on and flashing while driving, then going off for a short while and then coming on again.
    I scanned the car with an OBD ll tool and got fault codes for misfire on No1 Bank 1 and system running lean.
    I changed all of the spark plugs, fitted new injectors, new MAF, dismantled the Idle control unit on the throttle body (it did appear to be stuck, now freely revolving) and did a smoke vacuum test, no leaks.
    As it seemed I had done all that could be done I spoke to an experienced mechanic and he said the problem could be the ECU.
    I bought a secondhand unit (exactly the same part numbers as the original and fitted that.
    Now the engine cranks but will not start.
    I tried the paperclip in 4 and 13 of the OBD socket (half an hour) it still cranks but will not start.
    It might be worth mentioning that unfortunately I do not have an original Master Key, but have been able to program a fob for central locking using the open and closing door method (this was with the original ECU)
    Is there anything you could suggest that might solve my dilemma?
    Many thanks for reading, best regards. Mike

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Hello Mike.

    About the sync process, I am not sure if it works with ECMs for vehicles not sold in the USA, but it should as long as the ECM is made by Denso or Fujitsu. I mention this because you have a 2005 car with a 1.8L engine. All USA Rav4 models from 2004 to 2005 have the 2.4L (2AZ) engine and the 2001-2003 models have the 2.0L (1AZ) engine. The models here with the 1.8L engine are the 1999-2000 models.

    (1) So maybe your model has a different ECM?

    (2) By chance, have you put back the original ECM to see if it starts? That would be good to rule out any possible new problem with connections or anything else.

    (3) When you put the jumper for the sync process, did the lights in the dash panel flicker randomly? If not, either the jumper connection was not making good contact, or the sync process was not included in the firmware of the ECM of your model.

    (4) What about the ignition coils? Misfires are most of the time caused by bad ignition coils in the models I work with. Moreover, if that is the problem, only genuine coils must be used (Denso) because ALL other coils fail, either immediately, or in the short run, and will NEVER perform as the genuine Denso coils.

    If the car starts after testing with the original ECM, the next thing to do is reprogram the immobilizer chip of the replacement ECM or physically pass it from the old ECM. Of course, there are ways to reprogram the immobilizer with the TechStream Toyota scanner but it will require the TechStream software with a subscription, a license for the software, a locksmith extra subscription with Toyota, and buying access codes for resetting the immobilizer (I know I wouldn’t do that either).

    I will look forward to the answers to questions 1, 2, 3, and 4 to see how may I further help. Also, for passing the immobilizer chip from the old computer (desoldering and resoldering), I would need a high-resolution picture of each side of the circuit to point out where is the chip because again, this might be an ECM that I haven’t worked with before.

    Kind regards.

  • Michael Moore says:

    Many thanks for the reply Richard.
    1) The ECM I have and the secondhand one have identical part numbers, so like you said it
    is probably the immobiliser that needs programming.
    2) I will swap the original one back in again and see if it will start.
    3) With the jumper process some of the various lights on the dash are flashing during the
    process, but not all of them (could that be I haven’t a good connection, do you think?)
    4) As for the ignition coils, when the MIL first started and it was saying misfire on 1, I
    bought a new coil and replaced it, but the MIL still gave the same result (new plugs in all
    cylinders) so I swapped the coils around to see if there was any change. The MIL still
    said misfire on No.1
    So what I will do tomorrow (it’s 11.40pm here at the moment) is swap out the ECM’s and see if it starts and let you know the outcome.
    Again Richard I am so grateful for your help, I am sure we will overcome this somehow.
    By the way the central locking fob that I programmed (opening and shutting doors) still works with the replacement ECM, not sure if that is relevant.
    Kind regards
    Mike

    1
  • RICHARD says:

    Mike:

    Can you share the part number? (89661-xxxxx or 89666-xxxxx) ?

    With the jumper process some of the various lights on the dash are flashing during the process, but not all of them (could that be I haven’t a good connection, do you think?)

    No, it is working as it should. Some light will flash randomly but not all. In the article in the link below, there is an animated “GIF” picture showing it. The article is for the Corolla models but applies the same for the Rav4 models.

    Corolla Immobilizer

    …so I swapped the coils around to see if there was any change. The MIL still said misfire on No.1

    Weird. Not related to the immobilizer issue. I know it is the original issue and it could be a failing ECM but could also be a wiring problem.

    By the way the central locking fob that I programmed (opening and shutting doors) still works with the replacement ECM, not sure if that is relevant.

    Not really. The immobilizer and the keyfob systems, while both are security-related, they are separate systems. The keyfob (more related to an alarm system) may work well while the immobilizer stays locked and vice-versa.

  • Michael Moore says:

    Hi Richard,
    The full part numbers are as follows:
    ENGINE CONTROL UNIT
    TOYOTA
    89661-42730
    175200-5943 12V
    DENSO
    1ZZ-FE
    M/T
    I swapped the ECU’s back and the car started and took a short drive to see if the problem might have miraculously disappeared….to no avail, it came back on again.
    I tried the OBD jump for half an hour with the replacement ECU, but still, the car will not start.
    I have managed to open the original ECU and have been able to get high-resolution pictures of both sides but how can I send them to you?
    Thank you again for your help with this.
    KInd regards
    Mike

  • RICHARD says:

    Hello Mike. please email the pictures to info@technicaldomain.net

    I will check the circuit to see where is immobilizer eeprom chip so you can transplant it to the new ECM. I guess you know it but it will require desoldering the chip from one ECM to solder it in the other ECM.

    Kind regards.

  • Michael Moore says:

    Hello Richard,

    You should have received the circuit board pictures.
    Please let me know if they are not clear enough and I can take some more, probably in quarters so as to get better definition.

    Kind regards

    Mike

  • RICHARD says:

    I received the pictures and replied the email. If you do not receive the reply let me know.

    Cheers.

  • Hey Richard I have a situation with my 2004 Toyota RAV4 2.4l, I bought it about 5 Months ago and was having a hard time getting it t crank and start.so I wiggled the valet button (little red button) anyways finally got it started and drove from the guy’s house that I purchased it from to my house.my daughter was getting out of it and accidentally kicked the ballet button off and broke it.tried to fix it but had no luck wouldn’t even crank over. realizing that I have a after market security system and watching some videos on removal of the security alarm I located a relay that was connected to my ignition . I procided to cut it and spliced it together now when I turn the key, it will crank but will not start. What did I miss? Any thoughts and ideas will be appreciated thanks from Steve

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