My car engine hesitates when I accelerate!

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Quick and easy solution for curing the annoying hesitation, jittering, lag back feeling, stalling or whatever you wish to call it, which happens when you are accelerating your car.

 

(Note: While this article is dedicated to the Toyota Corolla late models, this will apply to most cars equipped with a MAF or flow meter sensor, either from Toyota or any other brand, like Nissan, Mitsubishi, etc.)

 

If you own a 2004, 2005, 2006 or 2007 Toyota Corolla and your car hesitates when you accelerate or it hesitates when driving, you should try the solution described here. Below is a list of the behavior your car may show that tells that you should try this procedure before going to a mechanic or repair shop.

 
  • The accelerator is slightly pressed while the car is running and it slightly jitters or hesitates
  • After completely stopping the car (a red light for example), it hesitates when you accelerate to continue driving
  • Engine power is below the usual level
  • Sometimes check engine light turns on

You should know that while those problems can be caused by several issues, including low quality or altered fuel or even a loosely tighten fuel cap, the most common cause is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor.

 

The MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor) is in charge of detecting how much air (in mass, not volume) is coming in to the engine, so the ecm computer can calculate the amount of fuel to be injected.

 

Some times this sensor gets contaminated by lots of microscopic debris that scape the air filter and accumulate on its sensing parts over time. The resulting effect is that the MAF flow meter sensor gets less “sensible” and detects less air than it is currently entering the engine. The reaction of the ecm computer will be to inject less fuel to keep the air fuel balance, taking as reference the false reading of the MAF flow meter sensor. This will produce a too-lean mixture, which is responsible of the hesitation, the loss in power and the check engine light.

 

If your car engine, besides the hesitation, is also producing knocking or engine pinging at high loads, like when going up through a hill, it is attributed to this too-lean condition.

 
 

Before going to an auto parts store or to a mechanic to fix the problem, you should try fixing it your self. If the problem is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor, the solution is to clean it, plain and simple. That may save you some money that a mechanic will charge for cleaning it (you could do the same) or for replacing the part when most of the times it is not damaged, just dirty or contaminated.

 

Here are some guidelines to do it by your self. If you do, you will be glad that you saved money and learned how to do it for the next time it happens to you, your family or friends.

 

First of all, you will only need a #2 Phillips screwdriver (shown in the picture below) for removing just two screws and a spray can of electrical cleaner, specially designed for these jobs. Though I said “specially designed”, don’t worry as it is available on any Auto Zone or similar stores. The brand “CRC” is an excellent one and it is also shown in the picture below (I am not affiliated with CRC or Auto Zone in any way, just sharing my experience).

 
CRC Electronic Cleaner - Excellent for MAF flow meter sensor cleaning
 
UPDATE: While the product above will still work great, the same Company (CRC) now has a product dedicated to the specific job of cleaning the MAF sensor. See it here on Amazon.com – CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner
 

Now, you will need to locate the MAF flow meter sensor in your Corolla. It is very accessible and no mechanical experience is needed to do this. In the picture below, the location of the MAF flow meter sensor of the 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007 Corolla (1ZZ-FE Engine) is shown. You will find it by opening the hood of your car’s engine compartment and looking at the air intake assembly behind the vehicle’s battery. It is attached in place by just two small Phillips screws. Take the screws out with a #2 Phillips screwdriver, carefully not to drop them off. If they drop, you may end up loosing them and while they can be easily replaced, this will turn from a quick fix to a time wasting ‘searching for a similar screws’ job that might involve a trip to the hardware store.

 
CRC Electronic Cleaner - Excellent for MAF flow meter sensor cleaning
 

After removing the two screws and putting them in a safe place, now pull out the MAF flow meter sensor. Sometimes it could feel a little bit attached, but if both screws are removed, it will come out.

 
Mounting screws to be removed to take out the flow meter
 

In the next picture, it is shown the MAF flow meter sensor already pulled out. Now you must disconnect the wiring harness that is attached to it, by pushing a plastic clip located in the plug, while pulling away the plug at the same time. It will easily come out.

 
Mounting screws to be removed to take the MAF out
 
Identifying the Toyota Corolla MAF sensor
 

With the MAF flow meter sensor already unmounted from your car’s engine, put it in a table over a paper towel or a cloth and with the CRC cleaner, spray directly to the connector harness to clean the contacts from debris and dust. Just spray it with full force for a couple of seconds. You should wear eye protection or be very careful so the spray back does not get in your eyes. Also, since this product is highly flammable, do this away from open flames, heat sources and in a ventilated area.

 
Cleaning the connector of the Toyota Corolla MAF Sensor
 

Now what will really fix the engine hesitation issue; spray with full force inside the MAF flow meter sensor openings for a couple of seconds on each opening. Avoid the straw of the spray can, to get inside the MAF sensor and touch anything inside. After that, repeat one more time and put the MAF sensor upside down, so the excess liquid drips out. Allow enough time for the MAF sensor to be completely dry before reinstalling it in your vehicle. The CRC chemical is designed to dry almost instantly and it does, but spraying for a few seconds over the MAF sensor’s surface, will considerably lower the temperature, causing condensation from the environment moisture. Just allow it to dry completely before putting it back in the engine. A good trick is, if the engine is warm by chance (you drove the car before doing this job), just put the MAF sensor on top of the plastic cover of the engine for at least 15 minutes and it will dry completely.

 
Cleaning the inside of the Toyota Corolla MAF Sensor
 

IMPORTANT! One final note. Please only use the chemical (spray) described here or one that is for similar purposes and (1) will not harm polymers (plastics), (2) will not harm electrical connections (not acidic) and (3) most important, will not leave any residue when it vaporizes. Cleaners that contain lubricants, like WD-40 for example, may not be used for this job. Any residue left inside the MAF sensor will damage the part. This job is about removing contaminants, not replacing them with some other substance.

 

That’s it! Enjoy your new-again Corolla!

 

Thanks for reading!

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Comments
October 29, 2010

Hello guys. I’m in El Salvador Central America, I’m really thankful with you, I own a corolla 03, brought from the United States, my car was hesitating when I accelerated, was hesitating so bad that, if I was stopped, then pressed the accelerator deep to the floor, the car would died. then I read your article, and I did ecxactly what you say, and the car runs like new now, thank God that here in El Salvador there is a store that sells CRC products, including the QD elactronic cleaner spray, so I want to thank you so much, I’m so happy, you saved me a lot of money.
Too bad you don’t have any articles about the corolla 98, I also have a corolla 98 and just stated a little jerky motion at all times, in Idle and when accelerates it’s not a smooth acceleration, can you please help me in that one too, you article was so clear, including the pictures so understandable, I wish the other guys can put pictures like you.
Thank you soooo much
Whilliam from El SAlvador.

PostedbyWhilliam Herrera Funes
November 17, 2010

thank you very much for the information,i have toyota double cab LR25 and it was losing power uphill and i took it to the mechanics and he told me your fuel pump is gone you have to replaced it before your car sease,which i found out was very costly to me.when i took to another mechanics he just cleaned up nozzles,fuet filter and valve,now i am on the road againe as before

April 1, 2011

im having the same problem about the hesitating and it also jerks while on brake but my car is a hyundai xg300 2001 please anyone help

Postedbyjenny
April 4, 2011

@Jenny

If you want to try the cleaning in your car, it would be similar. Just spray the chemical in the apertures of the sensor while uninstalled and leave it to dry completely before putting it back. The location of the sensor is drawn below.

Cheers.

Hyundai XG300 MAF location
PostedbyRichard
April 24, 2011

my car is a pontiac montana 2003 when i stop to a red light and accelerate when green the rpm goes up but my car does stop. any help pls

Postedbychan
August 13, 2011

I am having a hard time finding the MAF in my 2004 Chevy Aveo. Can you help?

PostedbyNella
August 14, 2011

Hello Nella.

The Aveo does not use the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. It instead, uses the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor).

If you still need to find the MAP (not the MAF), then it is located in the plenum, which is the part at the rear end of the air path, and it has 3 wires; WHITE, LT BLUE and LT BLUE.

This cars base their fuel delivery calculation on engine load by measuring its absolute pressure instead of basing it on air mass flow as their counterparts that use MAF sensors.

Best regards.

PostedbyRichard
September 27, 2011

Hi,
I have 2000 Toyota Echo and having similar problem. My car would hesitate for few seconds when sometimes I press the accelerator especially when it is not warm enough.
Should I try the same thing.
your wise advice is needed.

PostedbyShaiba
September 27, 2011

This solution worked for 2000 Toyota Echo, thanks so much!

PostedbySean
September 27, 2011

Hello Shaiba, sure, just look at the comment right below your comment from Sean.

This will apply for most Toyota MAF sensor from models from 1999 and later.

Hello Sean, thank you for your great feedback.

Richard

PostedbyRichard
January 7, 2012

I like the valuable information you supply for your articles. I will bookmark your weblog and test again right here regularly. I’m slightly certain I’ll be informed a lot of new stuff proper right here! Best of luck for the next!

Postedbyair purifiers
February 20, 2012

Thank you for your information.

PostedbyRolls Royce Service
March 29, 2012

Thank you for this incredible information. My mechanic is telling me it’s my clutch, but I have this issue when I’m accelerating, even on the highway with no clutch involvement. I’ve had a clutch go on me before, but it was very different.

I’m going to give this a shot! Would it be in the same place for a Toyota Matrix?

PostedbyTara
March 29, 2012

Hello Tara.

Yes, it should be in the same place in most Toyota models of years 2003 and later.

Sheers,

Richard

PostedbyRichard
March 29, 2012

Thank you so much for your reply. I headed out this evening and followed your directions (great directions by the way). It seemed to have helped a bit, but it wasn’t the answer.

I notice that when I really put the accelerator down hard, trying to accelerate quickly, it’s still the hesitation and then a revving of the engine before the speed slowly crawls up. A neighbor suggested this is probably spark plug wires as it seems worse in the winter and rain. Do you think that’s possible or is my mechanic right and I’m just going to have to cough up the money for a new clutch?

Many thanks,
Tara

PostedbyTara
March 30, 2012

I have a 1998 Corolla, I tried your recommendation to clean the MAF sensor and I also changed the air filter and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for the insight…. saved me a lot of money.

PostedbyPriyanka
March 30, 2012

Tara,

If it were the clutch, it would be because of it being slipping and you would smell it burning. I really doubt it is the clutch and also doubt it is caused by the spark plugs.

Does the check engine light is turning on?

Looks like you are having some lean mixture problems. It could be that fuel been injected is too little for compensating the air entering the engine, making it worse when flooring the gas pedal. Also, if it happens more at cold conditions, it will reinforce this theory, as in those conditions (cold), oxygen is more concentrated in air per volume, making the mixture leaner if not properly compensated with fuel.

On the other hand, if it was because of a too rich mixture, you would smell too much gasoline when flooring the gas pedal and even black smoke would come out of the exhaust.

Indicators? Well, the best simple indicator is to check the spark plugs. A too lean mixture will make the electrodes ashy or white. A too rich mixture will make it sooty black. An oil leakage will make it oily wet and a normal mixture will make it reddish brown.

If you find out that it is a too lean mixture, which is the one I am suspecting, it is because of any sensor that controls the mixture. The oxygen sensor does, but it is ignored by the ECM at wide open throttle (flooring the gas pedal), so we have left the MAF sensor. May be it is not dirty, but damaged.

You may also have too lean mixtures because of too low pressure in the fuel rail (bad fuel pump) and will be noticed at acceleration.

I would start by checking the MAF, if possible, by trying another one. I would also check the spark plugs to confirm the burning conditions as explained above and for the fuel rail pressure, there are instruments for measuring its pressure. If it is below 40 PSI and dropping when accelerating, you may have a fuel pump problem. For both, the 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-FE engines it should be from 44 PSI to 50 PSI.

I hope it helps.

Richard

PostedbyRichard
April 11, 2012

i am having similar issues. I have a 2006 ford focus. Car hesitates, rpm races high but gear feels like its not catching unless i take my foot off the pedal and then it catches. I just changed the spark plugs. This only happens after the car is fully warmed up, about 20 minutes of driving. No cel lights or anything have ever come on. When i just drive to work or something quick, about 10-15 minutes, no problems ever. Only happens after 20 minutes, usually on or after getting on the highway. Please help!

Postedbyandrea
April 11, 2012

only 59000 miles, and im pretty much car clueless, Im afraid to take my car to shop and get taken advantage of because I know nothing about these topics

Postedbyandrea
May 8, 2012

fantastic information…..and thank you so much !

hi there,i have used the cleaner on the contacts & sensors of the MAF as well…allmost sucess ! ,can i spray the connections on the multiplug that plugs onto the maf,( toyota rav4 2002 D4D 110’000 miles)only i’m still getting the odd slight engine

PostedbyJamie
May 19, 2012

I have 1999 Volkswagen jetta it hesitated during acceleration I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, now it hesitates only at cursing speed

PostedbyJustin
May 19, 2012

Thank you for the MAF flow meter cleaning instructions and pictures! My 2007 Corolla is running perfectly now.

PostedbyDonna
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