How do I know if my 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 has immobilizer (immo)?
The immobilizer system, also known just as “immo”, is an automotive security system integrated into many vehicles since the 1980s, and it has become more sophisticated over the years. It is installed in some 2001, 2002, and 2003 Toyota RAV4 cars, but not in all of them (from those years). If the immobilizer is present or not in your Toyota Rav4, it is not identifiable from the model number, or by its trim identifiers (Rav4, Rav4 L, etc.), nor in the VIN number, and definitely not in the ECM part number either.
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While we do not know the criteria used by the manufacturer for identifying which vehicles have it or not, we do know that it can be told if the immobilizer is enabled or disabled in a particular Rav4 model among years 2001, 2002, and 2003, simply by looking for the presence or absence of a fuse, or better, “a short pin”, as called by Toyota, but since it resembles a fuse in size and shape, we will call it a “fuse” in this article.
Location of the fuse box
There is a fuse box inside the vehicle cab and another one in the engine compartment. The one we will look for is the one located in the engine compartment.
Open the hood of your Toyota Rav4, and standing in front of the engine, you will see the fuse box on the right, near the fender, with a black plastic cover. Below is a picture of it and a drawing further below for easier identification.
Location of the immobilizer fuse
Lift the cover of the plastic box (fuse box) by depressing a clip on the front side of it. You will see something like in the picture below (probably with less dirt). In that picture, you can see a red arrow pointing to the location of the fuse we are referring to. When you see the layout legend in the reverse of the fusebox cap, you will notice that it is the only fuse that has no reference. I won’t say “immobilizer” or anything because it is part of the vehicle’s security system when installed.
The fuse is shown again in the drawing below. If that fuse is present, then the immobilizer system should be enabled in your Rav4. The job of that fuse is to supply power to the immobilizer system circuit. If the fuse is NOT present, it is an indication that the immobilizer is not enabled in your vehicle. However, we are assuming here that the fuse box hasn’t been tampered with.
Related Problems
There is a chance that a fuse was placed or removed by mistake by a mechanic or anyone else working with it. A mechanic, for example, could possibly think that not having that fuse in place might have something to do with whatever the problem your vehicle is showing, and decides to install a fuse in that place. After that, the vehicle will not start until the fuse is taken out.
Also, it is a common case that if the mentioned fuse box gets damaged or burned by a short circuit, and it is replaced by a brand new one, the new fuse box will ALWAYS have a fuse in that location. If your car is not meant to have a fuse there, your car will not start after the replacement of the box. Even if using a recycled fuse box, it may come opposite from your car’s case (with or without immobilizer) and it won’t start either. So if your car is not starting, the first step is to try starting the vehicle with and without that fuse. Just make sure you are working with the exact fuse location as indicated in the drawings.
There is a more technical way to make sure about the immobilizer status of your Rav4. It consists of scanning your car with a special Toyota tool, which will tell the status of the immobilizer. Another way is to take out the engine computer (ECM) and read the immobilizer memory chip. From that reading, assuming that the ECM is the original one from the vehicle, then any experienced technician can tell if the immobilizer system is enabled or disabled in that vehicle just by looking at the pattern of that file.
In Continental USA, we have hardly seen any 2001-2003 RAV4 with the immobilizer system enabled, while in Puerto Rico and in Hawaii, it is enabled in all RAV4 vehicles of those model years. In some other countries, it is enabled too, like in Germany, Grenada, and Norway, just to name a few.
Great results I had a no start condition on a Raf4 2009. Did the research found your post followed the instructions took the immobiliser fuse out and I am good to go!!
i have a rav 4 2002 model and i have no power getting to the electric windows
can you please help by sending me a picture of the fuse box and the fuse where the problem maybe with to be able to fix
Hello Mark. Unfortunately, the diagram we have is for the ECM wiring, which does not cover the other electrical system. We had a computer crash where all the diagrams were stored. Later in this month, all will be restored. As soon as it is done, if you still need the diagram, I will send it to you.
I am sorry I couldn’t help right now.
why would my 2003 rava 4 act like the breaks is on and tight? In 2-3 -r is ok. when driven in drive at 15+- mph and put trans. in low the car wants just stop and stop like the breaks are on somewhat like puttin on the breaks. had the ecm worked on and put in a new sidnold on transmission –thank you
Hello Tom. The transmission must be diagnosed because of the symptoms you described.
The ECM could be at fault too since there is where problems with the transmission start. The ECM fails and if it is not repaired or replaced on time, then the transmission fails too.
Start by checking the level and clarity of the transmission fluid (ATF) to have an idea of how is the mechanical condition of it.
hell Tom Horn Your gonna like what I’m about to tell you since I already had the same problem as your having with my 2003 RAV4 with 160,000 miles it started to have an issue that I called the emergency brake on sensation it would not happen at start up but when warm and it was in no particular schedule it was random and then ai would leave the car cool down and it was fine again I heard the same transmission oh it’s the ecu after some though I remember I just changed the 2 upstream air/fuel mixture sensors as well as the 2.downstewam o2 sensors after a check engine and a code stating the heaters.in the air/fuel sensors was malfunctioning so now I’m really thinking and I know I just figured out what 3 or for professional mechanics could not what if the car was running to rich due to the faulty air fuel sensors and from this had been dumping unburned fuel down the catalytic converter hmmm I said it would lock it so I bought a new catalytic converter from Amazon something mid grade $200 bucks had it installed problem solved never would I thought a converter would do an cause these problems but ya they can so I hope this helps
Hi how do I find out if my 2000 Toyota Camroad (Japanese import) has an immobiliser??
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated
I have RAV2003 and the it us not working well , technical guy told me the engine control has issue , how can I check and confirm it
Hello.
Thank you for your comment.
Have you or a technician scanned the car? What issues is the car having? Problems with the engine? Problems with the transmission?
I have a 1980 Toyota rav4. Changed the diesel filter. Now it won’t start.
Field filter up,pump fuel to filter.
Cracked eject.
Thinking maybe immobiliser.
Any suggestions please!
My friend, the Toyota Rav4 was introduced in 1994 (1996 in the USA). Diesel models where introduced further after that.
So maybe you are referring to another car? Anyway, I left your comment here in case some good soul can help, because here in the USA, we do not have the diesel models, and because of that, I could not help you with technical assistance. I hope someone else can help.
Kind regards
I have a 2001 RAV4 and I just replaced the battery. The old battery was fine but winter is coming and it was 2 years old so I thot I would replace it. Besides I needed a battery for an old gas golf cart so I thot I could use my old battery there.
All dash lights seem to be working, after market radio works and remembered settings, the electric windows work and the doors lock/unlock with the fob. Both keys I have are remakes. The starter turns the motor over just like before but the engine will not fire. I’ve tried a number of remedies from help lines and blogs but no luck. I checked all fuses and even tried the old battery again. It will not start. No fuse in the immobilizer slot. Help?
Hello Frank. I can only think of two scenarios. The most common, an aftermarket security system (not the immobilizer), most likely an alarm, that needs to be reset. This happens often with some security systems when the battery is disconnected or replaced.
The second scenario, not as common as the one above, but I have seen it several times, is that somehow the code in the immobilizer memory was corrupted. You see, your car always have the immobilizer circuit built in. The difference is that the code in its memory is different, depending on if the car has the immobilizer enabled or disabled. In either case, if the code in its memory gets corrupted, the engine will crank but will not fire.
In the first case, you will need the manual of the alarm system to see how to reset it. In the second case the only way around is reprogramming the immobilizer chip of your car’s ECM.
Of course, it can be something else, but given the events you describe, I cannot think of anything else and most likely, it is #1.
I hope this helps.
The door remote lock/unlock that I thot was factory is actually an Auto mate RPN 476A. Could this be part of my security system that’s preventing me from starting the RAV4? If so do you know how to reset it to make my car start again?
Thanks,
It could be, but unfortunately, I do not have the information for that system. If the key fob seems to be working (locks/unlocks), then try with the remote to see if there is any key combination for that purpose. As a side note, most alarm systems block the starter from running. If your car’s starter is cranking ok, then there is a possibility of the issue being something else.
Richard,
I tried several remedies that I found online with no luck. The Automate recorded line suggested disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then reconnecting positive first then negative (in reverse order of what Toyota recommends.) I tried this and it didn’t work. I spoke to a human there on Monday who really didn’t care what my problem was. He wouldn’t speak unless I asked questions or presented scenarios. Duh, No help. Their website listed several installers none of which had heard of Automate. More no help. I finally spoke with a local installer who knew of them but didn’t believe the security system to be the problem. Good listener tho.
Finally I disconnected the battery for a few hours and reconnected pos then neg. The alarm went off and the car started. I drove around for 10 minutes and parked the car. The next day no start. As usual with this problem the starter would turn the motor but it wouldn’t start. Somehow I believed that I was on the right track so I disconnected the battery for over 8 hours and then reconnected pos then neg. The car has been running ever since. I’m still shaking my head.🤪
Sorry for the long winded note but I tried to be brief. It’s a long damn story and I have more info too. Thanks for your help with my 20 year old system!
Frank
Hey Frank! I am glad that you could sort it out ( fingers crossed 🙂 )
I hope it doesn’t give you any further problem.
I am surprised that you even managed to speak to a human from Automate. As you experienced, those large companies are more into selling than giving any helpful support.
Thanks goes to you for sharing your solution. I am sure that more than one person facing a similar problem with his/her car will benefit from it.
Cheers! 🙂
I tried several times I remove fuse for the first he starts and I just drive for 3 days and comes back security indicator light for Toyota RAV4 2001 ex-uk
Hello Langton. This is a permanent thing. You mentioned that you have tried several times. If the fuse is OUT, as long as the vehicle DOES NOT have immobilizer, it will start and run. If the fuse is IN, then the contrary, it will start and run as long as IT HAS the immobilizer system enabled and well programmed.
If you try this and the car stops starting after 3 days, either there is a problem in other area, or I did not understand the details if your description. I see it as that you put or took out the fuse and it started and then it died after 3 days. Is this it?
I have rave 4 2002 petrol Automatic there is no communication and it’s not starting only crank
Have you check the fuse location described in this article? Remember; (1) no immobilizer = no fuse used, or (2) has immobilizer = needs a fuse. If done otherwise = no start. So if for example, there is no fuse, you must be sure that your keys are NOT transponder keys (no chip). You know, to rule out the possibility of one believing that it does not have the immobilizer system and surprisingly it does, or the contrary.
Other than that, is the “security” light flashing? Did the ECM got flooded or has any damage? I ask you this because you mentioned that there is no communication and that could be a damage in the ECM or its wiring, especially, the ground connections.
Hi Richard,
You are truly a gentleman with your help with Rav4 owners problems.
Now I have a problem with my 2005 Rav4 1.8L Petrol and I hope you might be able to help.
I was having the engine management light coming on and flashing while driving, then going off for a short while and then coming on again.
I scanned the car with an OBD ll tool and got fault codes for misfire on No1 Bank 1 and system running lean.
I changed all of the spark plugs, fitted new injectors, new MAF, dismantled the Idle control unit on the throttle body (it did appear to be stuck, now freely revolving) and did a smoke vacuum test, no leaks.
As it seemed I had done all that could be done I spoke to an experienced mechanic and he said the problem could be the ECU.
I bought a secondhand unit (exactly the same part numbers as the original and fitted that.
Now the engine cranks but will not start.
I tried the paperclip in 4 and 13 of the OBD socket (half an hour) it still cranks but will not start.
It might be worth mentioning that unfortunately I do not have an original Master Key, but have been able to program a fob for central locking using the open and closing door method (this was with the original ECU)
Is there anything you could suggest that might solve my dilemma?
Many thanks for reading, best regards. Mike
Hello Mike.
About the sync process, I am not sure if it works with ECMs for vehicles not sold in the USA, but it should as long as the ECM is made by Denso or Fujitsu. I mention this because you have a 2005 car with a 1.8L engine. All USA Rav4 models from 2004 to 2005 have the 2.4L (2AZ) engine and the 2001-2003 models have the 2.0L (1AZ) engine. The models here with the 1.8L engine are the 1999-2000 models.
(1) So maybe your model has a different ECM?
(2) By chance, have you put back the original ECM to see if it starts? That would be good to rule out any possible new problem with connections or anything else.
(3) When you put the jumper for the sync process, did the lights in the dash panel flicker randomly? If not, either the jumper connection was not making good contact, or the sync process was not included in the firmware of the ECM of your model.
(4) What about the ignition coils? Misfires are most of the time caused by bad ignition coils in the models I work with. Moreover, if that is the problem, only genuine coils must be used (Denso) because ALL other coils fail, either immediately, or in the short run, and will NEVER perform as the genuine Denso coils.
If the car starts after testing with the original ECM, the next thing to do is reprogram the immobilizer chip of the replacement ECM or physically pass it from the old ECM. Of course, there are ways to reprogram the immobilizer with the TechStream Toyota scanner but it will require the TechStream software with a subscription, a license for the software, a locksmith extra subscription with Toyota, and buying access codes for resetting the immobilizer (I know I wouldn’t do that either).
I will look forward to the answers to questions 1, 2, 3, and 4 to see how may I further help. Also, for passing the immobilizer chip from the old computer (desoldering and resoldering), I would need a high-resolution picture of each side of the circuit to point out where is the chip because again, this might be an ECM that I haven’t worked with before.
Kind regards.
Many thanks for the reply Richard.
1) The ECM I have and the secondhand one have identical part numbers, so like you said it
is probably the immobiliser that needs programming.
2) I will swap the original one back in again and see if it will start.
3) With the jumper process some of the various lights on the dash are flashing during the
process, but not all of them (could that be I haven’t a good connection, do you think?)
4) As for the ignition coils, when the MIL first started and it was saying misfire on 1, I
bought a new coil and replaced it, but the MIL still gave the same result (new plugs in all
cylinders) so I swapped the coils around to see if there was any change. The MIL still
said misfire on No.1
So what I will do tomorrow (it’s 11.40pm here at the moment) is swap out the ECM’s and see if it starts and let you know the outcome.
Again Richard I am so grateful for your help, I am sure we will overcome this somehow.
By the way the central locking fob that I programmed (opening and shutting doors) still works with the replacement ECM, not sure if that is relevant.
Kind regards
Mike
Mike:
Can you share the part number? (89661-xxxxx or 89666-xxxxx) ?
“With the jumper process some of the various lights on the dash are flashing during the process, but not all of them (could that be I haven’t a good connection, do you think?)”
No, it is working as it should. Some light will flash randomly but not all. In the article in the link below, there is an animated “GIF” picture showing it. The article is for the Corolla models but applies the same for the Rav4 models.
Corolla Immobilizer
“…so I swapped the coils around to see if there was any change. The MIL still said misfire on No.1”
Weird. Not related to the immobilizer issue. I know it is the original issue and it could be a failing ECM but could also be a wiring problem.
“By the way the central locking fob that I programmed (opening and shutting doors) still works with the replacement ECM, not sure if that is relevant.”
Not really. The immobilizer and the keyfob systems, while both are security-related, they are separate systems. The keyfob (more related to an alarm system) may work well while the immobilizer stays locked and vice-versa.
Hi Richard,
The full part numbers are as follows:
ENGINE CONTROL UNIT
TOYOTA
89661-42730
175200-5943 12V
DENSO
1ZZ-FE
M/T
I swapped the ECU’s back and the car started and took a short drive to see if the problem might have miraculously disappeared….to no avail, it came back on again.
I tried the OBD jump for half an hour with the replacement ECU, but still, the car will not start.
I have managed to open the original ECU and have been able to get high-resolution pictures of both sides but how can I send them to you?
Thank you again for your help with this.
KInd regards
Mike
Hello Mike. please email the pictures to info@technicaldomain.net
I will check the circuit to see where is immobilizer eeprom chip so you can transplant it to the new ECM. I guess you know it but it will require desoldering the chip from one ECM to solder it in the other ECM.
Kind regards.
Hello Richard,
You should have received the circuit board pictures.
Please let me know if they are not clear enough and I can take some more, probably in quarters so as to get better definition.
Kind regards
Mike
I received the pictures and replied the email. If you do not receive the reply let me know.
Cheers.
Hey Richard I have a situation with my 2004 Toyota RAV4 2.4l, I bought it about 5 Months ago and was having a hard time getting it t crank and start.so I wiggled the valet button (little red button) anyways finally got it started and drove from the guy’s house that I purchased it from to my house.my daughter was getting out of it and accidentally kicked the ballet button off and broke it.tried to fix it but had no luck wouldn’t even crank over. realizing that I have a after market security system and watching some videos on removal of the security alarm I located a relay that was connected to my ignition . I procided to cut it and spliced it together now when I turn the key, it will crank but will not start. What did I miss? Any thoughts and ideas will be appreciated thanks from Steve
I have a RAV4 2002 the engine won’t start but it produces spark at first kicking when the engine want to start the the spark will go and will not come back again causing the engine not to start please what can I do
Hello Godbless.
Does the check engine light comes on? If yes, have somebody checked what code is it?
Does your Rav4 use the immobilizer system?
Bonsoir Mr Richard.
J’espère que vous allez bien!? J’ai une RAV4 de 2003, Automatique, 4wd… J’avais un soucis avec le petit moteur greffé au boîtier Papillon, qui gère le régime du moteur au ralenti. Il était grippé et encrassé. Je l’ai demonté et nettoyé tout était rentré dans l’ordre. J’arrête le moteur, qlqs minutes le temps de ranger mes outils, je viens pour essayer de démarrer, le démarreur fait tourner le moteur mais le véhicule ne démarre pas… après vérification des fusible et relais, tout semble bon sauf, la led “sécurity” qui reste entrain de clignoter avec ou sans le clef inséré dans le contact… Je ne comprends pas ce qui s’est passé… Pouvez-vous m’aider à comprendre svp
— TRADUCTION GOOGLE —
Bonjour Anthony.
Il semble que le système d’antidémarrage présente un problème. Il peut s’agir de l’une des raisons suivantes :
1. Avez-vous retiré le fusible de sécurité ? Il est équipé d’un fusible de sécurité (pas un fusible, mais un cavalier) pour alimenter le circuit d’antidémarrage. Assurez-vous qu’il est bien en place. Il se trouve dans la boîte à fusibles du compartiment moteur.
Toyota Rav4 Immo Fuse
2. Assurez-vous de n’avoir débranché aucun connecteur par inadvertance.
3. Il est possible que la programmation de l’antidémarrage dans l’ECM ait été endommagée ou corrompue. Si tel est le cas, la puce de l’antidémarrage doit être reprogrammée.
La puce est une EEPROM 25080 pour l’ECM du moteur 1AZ-FE (photo ci-dessous). Si votre ECM est pour le 1AZ-FSE, il s’agira d’une EEPROM 25040.
Toyota Rav4 Immobilizer EEPROM Chip
Concernant le point 3 ci-dessus, je n’ai constaté que la corruption de la puce suite à un problème électrique, comme une batterie en marche arrière (même pendant une fraction de seconde), une surtension ou un court-circuit.
— ENGLISH —
Hello Anthony.
Looks like the immobilizer system has a problem. It could be any of the following:
1. Did you remove the security fuse? It has a security fuse (not a fuse, but really a jumper) to power the immobilizer circuit. Make sure it is in place. It is in the engine compartment fusebox.
Toyota Rav4 Immo Fuse
2. Make sure you did not inadvertently disconnect any connector.
3. It is possible that somehow, the immobilizer programming inside the ECM got damaged or corrupted. If that is the issue, then the immobilizer chip inside the ECM must be reprogrammed.
The chip is a 25080 EEPROM for the 1AZ-FE engine ECM (picture below). If your ECM is for the 1AZ-FSE, then it will be a 25040 EEPROM.
Toyota Rav4 Immobilizer EEPROM Chip
About #3 above, I have only seen that chip getting corrupted after an electrical problem, like battery in reverse (even for a fraction of a second), or over voltage, or a short circuit.
Is it possible to turn off the immobilizer on my 2003 Toyota 2.0 diesel? It sometimes causes me problems and won’t turn off the red light, it keeps flashing. I tried removing the unmarked fuse but it still doesn’t work. So I’m asking you to help me. Thank you.
IT WORKS NORMALLY FOR FIVE DAYS AND THEN THE REAL PROBLEM IS THAT THE LIGHT WILL NOT TURN OFF AND IT WILL NOT ALLOW IT TO BE STARTED. I LEAVE IT LIKE THAT AND THE NEXT DAY IT STARTS UP NORMALLY.
Hello Vitomir. I do not have access or information for the diesel models. Those are not sold in the USA. I did not even know that the immobilizer fuse was present in those models.
If your car has a separate immobilizer ECU (immobox), in the USA models you will need to disconnect it, also remove the immobilizer fuse, and reprogram the ECM to make it ignore the immobilizer system altogether. I do not know if the diesel models are the same.
I am sorry I could not help and appreciate the comments.
Thanks for the answer, I will try to find the dump with the immobilizer off, I opened the computer inside with eeprom 93C56, now I have to search for the dump. Thanks for contacting me
Hello Vitomir. I have several files for the gasoline models. If you wish, you may email me the dump of your ECM and I can check by comparison if I have one similar with the immo off.
info@technicaldomain.net
Regards
Thank you, I opened the computer and I see that the eeprom is 93C56, I will try to download the file
Regards
Hello Richard. Today I managed to read the contents of the 93C56 eeprom. Once I read it as 8 bit and the second time as 16 bit so I have two files. I would like to ask if you can send me an email so that I can send you the files if you can convert them to immo off. Thanks
I sent it to the email below your name
Thank you very much again
Hello Vitomir. The files look very different from the files in the USA vehicles. I mean, their format byte-wise.
I am replying the email with two files used in the vehicles here to see if any of those work in your car. Always keep a backup of the original file just in case this does not work. Again, the format is somewhat different.
In the reply to your email, the file “Virgin_16-Bits.bin” is the virgin file used here for key relearn and registration, and the file “No-Immo_16-bits.bin”, is the file for immo off in the USA vehicles, as long as any connection to the immobox is disconnected, or in the case that there is no immobox, check if there is fuse-like pin in the engine compartment fuse box to activate the immobilizer, and take it off.
If none work, just put back the original file and please, let me know as I am curious about it.
Regards
Hello Rick
I tried both files, nothing worked. I returned the original file and the car started. I don’t know if this will last, because it happened before that it would work for two days and then the problem again. I have an interesting question:
even though all the connectors were disconnected from the computer, the immobilizer socket (the part that is under the key, the board with the electronics and the socket goes into it) the immobilizer light was still flashing. Now it is not clear to me if there is another box with the immobilizer that I could not locate. I also removed the unmarked fuse in the engine compartment, and the light was still flashing. Now everything is normal as soon as I put the light in the lock turns off. I don’t understand anything. Maybe I’m a little too busy in writing, but that’s how it was. Your opinion is very important to me. Thank you once again
Hello Vitomir.
I kinda guessed it. The files of the diesel ECM were much different from those of the gasoline models.
If you have disconnected the ECM, the antenna amplifier (the circuit under the key), and the fuse, but the light is still glowing, then it is likely that an immobox (transponder key ECU) is installed. That is the only way that the security light will go off as soon as the key is inserted, because it means that there is a system in place recognizing the codes of the RFID chip inside the keys. If that is the case, I have known cases where the connector of such a box gets loose and produces intermittent problems.
The immobox, if present, works in parallel with the ECM for the immobilizer system. In early models, this was all integrated in the ECM, but since the immobilizer system had occasional problems, they moved that part to a separate box in the later models. It was less expensive to replace the immobox than to replace the ECM. This was because dealers replace the whole thing when problems arise. The manufacturer of these units did not take into account the probability of someone working with them at a component level, given the “high security” level that the design was thought to be.
If the immobox is present, at least in the USA models, it is under the steering side dash area, near the interior fusebox. It only has one connector, and it is held in place by only one screw.
Thanks Rick
I won’t be able to look inside under the steering wheel before Monday. For now, the car works, I don’t know if the problem will appear again, it remains in the service for a few more days to harass it. Thank you very much for your help, which was encouraging for me to come out as a winner in this situation. Lots of greetings from Montenegro. Igalo is a small place near Dubrovnik. Cheers