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Installing a Honda P28 ecu chip
Posted by Richard 1 February, 2010
How to install a P28 chip.
While this covers the P28 USDM ecu, the procedure is the same for almost all 1992-1995 (OBD-I) Civic and Integra ecus. The circuits of all of them are based on the same construction design. Those are, but not limited to, P05, P06, P08, P28, P30, P72, P75, PR4 (OBD-I).
Note: These are step by step installation instructions, but it will still require electronic components soldering and managing skills. Specially when working with these ecu circuits, that are very sensitive to overheating. Also, it results difficult to desolder parts once are soldered in place, because of the multi-layer nature of these circuits. Multilayer means that it has connections above, bellow and inside the circuit board layers. Multi-layer circuits may contain from one internal layers (other than the top and bottom ones) to many of them.
You must start by uninstalling the ecu from your car. It must be located beneath the carpet in the passenger’s side foot rest.
Once you uninstall the ecu from the car, place it on a bench or flat table for working it out. Have handy all the parts in the kit, which are; the Power-ROM chip (from www.racingchips.net), the 1K resistor, the two .1uf capacitors, the 74HC373 chip and a wire jumper. That last one can be any piece of wire. A cut lead from the resistor when installed will do the job.
Have also handy the tools needed for the job, which are:
1 – A Phillips #2 screwdriver (For removing and replacing the ecu covers)
2 – Small flat screwdriver (In case it is needed to remove a chip or component by gently prying)
3 – Small wire cutters or clippers (For cutting leads excess length)
4 – Long nose pliers (For holding the small parts when installing)
5 – 25 to 35 watt soldering iron (For soldering the parts in the circuit)
6 – Desoldering vacuum tool or desoldering braid (For removing parts and/or cleaning connections)
7 – 60/40 rosin core solder
8 – Alcohol pads (For cleaning the circuit board from excess flux)
9 – Anti-static wrist (For protecting both the ecu and components to be installed)
10 – Soldering flux (liquid or paste, for electronic soldering – DO NOT use plumbing or any acid flux! This might be needed to remove any part in the case of accidental wrong installation)
Before starting, plug the soldering iron in so it gets ready to use in a few minutes. Also, make sure you put on the anti-static wrist and connect the other end to a good earth ground, like metal conduit of the house hold electrical circuit (mechanical or safety ground) or a cold water metal pipe. Check number “11″ above for using the electrical house hold circuit for this. This will protect the ecu and components to be installed, since static electricity may render any electronic equipment or component useless!
Start by removing all the 10 bolts (5 on each side) that hold the ecu covers. For the rest of the procedures, please refer to the drawing bellow:
(Click on image to enlarge)
On the components side of the ecu, search for the place marks (footprints) in the circuit where the parts to be installed belong. You will find 6 place marks at the lower right corner of the ecu, if having the ecu in the same position of the ecu depicted above. These are; “27256“, “74HC373“, “R54“, “C51“, “C52” and “J1“.
If you have a “virgin ecu”, you will find the connections on those place marks, covered with solder. If it is not your case, continue in the next paragraph. Now spread some solder flux over the pin connections on the circuit that are covered with solder and proceed to remove the soldering using the soldering iron and either, the desoldering vacuum tool or the desoldering braid.
The connections on the board should remain opened and you should be able to look through the holes after solder removal. After this is done on all the footprints of all the marked components, clean the circuit of excess soldering flux with the alcohol pads and please continue below, on “Installing the parts“.
If your ecu is NOT “virgin”, it should be either one of the two following cases; (1) your ecu was already chipped and you should be able to just pull any chip that could be in a socket in the area of “27256″, and insert the Power-ROM or (2) your ecu is chipped from factory as a modification for converting from one ecu type to another. In this last case, the chip to be replaced will have a copper colored label on it and will NOT be mounted on a socket.
In the first case, the parts in the “OBD-I Kit” will not be needed. About the second case, is the worst one since the factory chip will have to be removed (unsoldered) to be replaced by the chip socket. Removing a direct soldered chip is not the easiest job and if it was poorly installed and if you don’t have the needed experience, I suggest to bring the whole thing to a professional or there is a risk of damaging and loosing the ecu.
If you decide to do it yourself even though your case is the above explained, for desoldering the chip, it is advised to first re-solder the chip to “rejuvenate” the connections and then remove the soldering with the soldering iron and either the desoldering vacuum tool or desoldering braid. This will take great care and patience, since the circuit board, as explained above, is a multi-layered one and will not release the soldered parts easily or at once.
If an internal connection of the board is broken, it might be as bad as needing to replace the ecu, although some accidents can be repaired. Again, great care should be taken doing this job.
Installing the parts
After cleaning all the pin connections area with alcohol, install on each place mark the corresponding part by soldering. Remember to install the 28-Pin socket instead of directly soldering the power-ROM in the “27256″ area. Care must be taken when soldering the “74HC373″ chip NOT to (1) overheat it when soldering and (2) NOT to install it backwards.
Please refer to the pin orientation drawing below, when both inserting the Power-ROM in the socket and soldering in place the 74HC373 chip.
After installing all 6 parts and inserting the Power-ROM, just put back together the ecu and re-install it in your car.
The following table contains a list of the parts in the installation kit and their reference numbers on the circuit board, along with a brief explanation of their function in the circuit. Use it as a reference for easier location and installation.
(Click on image to enlarge)
Note: If your car will not pass the 3300-4000 RPMs after installing a chip, something went wrong, either with the installation or the chip it self. In the link below, you will find a troubleshooting guide, applicable to chip installations on the P05, P06, P28, P72 and P75 Honda ecms.
Copyright www.TechnicalDomain.net
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For those of you that might be wondering, “R54″ is picked to be a 1k (1,000 Ohms) resistor, but values as high as 10K (10,000 Ohms) are being successfully used. This part is not critical as you can see, so if you can get a value from 1K to 10K, it will work, though the closer to 1K, the better.
One more thing, the jumper “J1″, as mentioned before, is to enable the reading of the external ROM you just installed (the chip). So, as you might be guessing so far, yes, it can be replaced with a switch to enable or disable the external ROM reading mode of the ecu, then enabling or disabling the extra power!
If doing so, please bear in mind that switch wires must be kept short to prevent electronic noise from being picked up like an antenna would do, and entering to the computer circuit, which might make it to behave erratically or to lock up on times. No more than 2-3 feet should be ok.
Also, many computers will require to turn off the engine and then on, for changes to take effect, while others will allow changes “on the fly”.
these ecus are easier than some others because there is no chip in place where you are goind to work. contrary to other that you have to remove the stock chip. good info.
That is right. Civic and Integra OBD-I ecus are easier to chip than their counter part OBD-I Accord and Prelude. On the first ones, you just remove soldering from the footprint and insert the parts. On the others, you must desolder the factory parts first, so the new parts can be inserted ans soldered. Nevertheless, for both jobs, skills on electronic circuit soldering and electronic parts management are required.
Thanks for reading,
Richard
Power-ROM chips are from:
http://www.OtherDeal.com
for the j1 what kind of wire are you reffereing to wire as in metal wire or wire as in a wire you run power through
Hello Jeff.
Either one. Just a jumper. It could be a piece of the leads of the resistor, a small piece or speaker wire or even a small paper clip. Something to make an electrical connection between the two points of “J1″. If it is a bare metal wire (no insulation), like a cut lead from a resistor, just make sure that it connects to the two points marked in “J1″ and do not touch anything else.
Cheers,
Richard
Guys, as many have asked this, on the P72 (94-95 Integra GSR) and P74 / P75 (1994-1995 Integra LS) the resistor R54 is NOT needed.
Cheers
Rick
Hi!
With installing this chip,how large a performance I may count on an increase?
Hello. Performance from these chips vary from engine to engine, depending on #1 setup, #2 how good is the engine mechanically and #3 the weather and altitude where it is being used.
It will be anything form 2 BHP to about 10 BHP. The number might seem low, but the feeling will definitively tell the contrary and one single horse power may be the difference between winning or loosing a race or for less time in a quarter mile.
As usual, the recommendation is, the cooler the air entering the engine, the these chips will performs as cooler air is more dense than hot air, thus containing more oxygen concentration.
As an example for that, people who live in a hot weather Country, will experience small boost in power when driving at nights because of lower temperatures than at day time.
Cheers
Hi!
The engine d16z6, wm 4-1 complete exhaust system,5 kg of flywheel, cold air intake.
The engine went through a full renovation.
Largest performance until now 20celsius in a degree,
6400 turn s20-as with bill. (5–gears)(195/50×15).
A chip would be needed for this configuration!
Your proposal?
In Hungary the average temperature of my lodge, the climate (in summer 25-32c degree).
Thank you!
Hello Martin. For the D16Z6, the P28 is widely used, but since you are located in Hungary, I guess that your ecu is not an USDM model.
While all your mods are compatible with our chips, a chip for your car will depend on your ecu more than anything, so if you please let me know the complete number of your car’s ecu (”37820-P??-???”) I will be able to tell you for sure.
Cheers
Helló!
Ecu numbers:37820 P28 G01
Motor:D16Z6..
Thanks!
Hello Martin. Thanks for replying. Yes we sell the exact chip for that ecu that will go great with your mods, but right now they are in backorder.
There were an unexpected massive sale and we ran out of them. We are expecting them in a week or so. Anyway, the link is below, just in case you want to check once in a while for availability.
http://www.otherdeal.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_10&products_id=140
Very interesting information.
Thanks for this info. i just bought a chip from ebay and it didn’t include instructions. anyway i installed the chip and it fills little or no difference. it was pretty cheap anyway, so i guess i got what i paid for…
Hi
i have a P28 ecu and i want to convert to a P30 what chip i heve to buy?
thanks
You should buy then a P30 chip, but make sure that the conversion is made right, as must P30’s out there are JDM ecms, contrary to P28, which is USDM.
If you convert it right (I guess P28 to an USDM P30) then you will just need a chip for that USDM P30.
I hope this helps. For any other question you are welcome back.
Richard