EWS Deletion Chip
One of our customers, Jerryvan Rosado, sent us some valuable information on his experience with this method. It is as follows:
“Thank you for the chip it worked perfect. Just wanted to comment something since I didn’t see it in the Tech docs you guys posted about bypassing the EWS-II system. I installed the chip and cut connection #66 from the ECU but it still needed the key’s chip to start so I went into the EWS Module behind the glove box then cut and joined wires 1 and 3 from the EWS. They are the ignition and switch cables in order to properly bypass the EWS Module. After that, now even my remote started works from up in my apartment with no chip in sight in or out of the car. Just though I could point out that I did since I didn’t see it in your post here at EWS Deletion Chip.
Thanks.
~Jerry”
Once again, thank you very much Jerry, for this valuable information. We are sure that you are helping many BMW users by sharing your experience.
-Richard
We have often been asked for a EWS delete chip. That is, a chip that boost power of their 1995 325i or 525i, and deletes the EWS protection at the same time.
First of all, what is EWS? EWS is an anti-theft system installed in BMW cars around 1995 (EWS-II). Later cars use EWS system too, but different versions (EWS-III, for example). It is similar on its idea, to the immobilizer system used in other cars, like Toyota, Honda and VW.
Schematic of the EWS-II system:
In the 1995 325i / 525i, it is used the EWS-II. Those cars have module (EWS Control Module), pictured above as “EWS II”, that connects to the ecu (“DME” above). The car key sends an unique code through the key lock cylinder, to the transmitter/receiver module which amplifies the signal and convert it to a digital signal and then send it to the EWS control module. This module will compare the received code with the code stored in the ecu (“DME”) and if the same, all normal functioning is resumed. Otherwise, the starter might work or not, but there will absolutely be no injection.
In short, your car can only be started with your key (transponder key). The key has a micro chip inside with the unique code stored on its micro circuit. Your car’s ecu will only “listen” to your key. A perfect copy of the key won’t work either, even if it is a similar transponder key, originally made by BMW.
So an EWS delete chip, has as part of its functions, the disabling of this system. We don’t have one of those chips available, but the one we have (www.racingchips.net) can be used if some wiring tampering is done. Our chip is meant for Non-EWS ecus (0 261 200 413 with RED label or sticker, NOT Silver colored). If our chip is used without the tampering on EWS enabled ecus (silver label or sticker), the car won’t crank or will crank but will not start.
You can install the Non-EWS chip and manually disable the EWS system by locating the EWS Control Module (location pictured below) and cut or disconnect the wire #4 (solid green colored). This will allow the chip to give its power and not been interrupted by the EWS system.
Other alternative, is to disconnect the same wire from the ecu instead. On the ecu it connects to pin #66, as shown on the image below. The image is of the harness terminal and NOT of the ecu terminal. That is why numbers are on inverted order. Click on it to see it full size.
The cons of this are of course, that your car will no longer be protected by the EWS system as long as you have this modification.
Reaching the EWS Control Module:
Good luck and thanks for reading.
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I have a question, if I buy one of those chips, will they work on my ews ecu if I cut the wire #7 at the ews module foe sure?
Welcome again Neftali. Yes, if you get one of those chips and your car is EWS equipped, all you will need to do is disconnect the wire #7 from you EWS-II module (or #66 from the ecu). That’s all and your car will be brought to life like magic with the chip installed.
Thanks for reading,
Richard
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Hello. I regret I can not help. That website is a free html template from “freewebsitetemplates.com”, modified and manually converted into PHP. It is all manual and not user friendly as any CMS would be.
That specific one, you can preview it here:
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Thanks for you appreciation to the website.
Rick
Hi, good post. I have been woondering about this issue,so thanks for posting. I’ll definitely be coming back to your site.
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Thanks for posting about this, I would like to read more about this topic.
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Hi everybody.
Thank you for some interesting input regarding EWS and installation of a modified chip.
Maybe this is a silly question since it may already have been answered but I really need to be 100 % sure before I buy and install a new chip.
Can I install a NON EWS chip in my ´95 530i V8 wich have EWS, IF I disconnect cable number#7 on the EWS module or #66 at the ECU as described earlier in the thread?
Best regards – Peter.
Hello Peter.
There is no silly question my friend. The only silly question is the one that is not asked.
About the 1995 530i, it uses the same EWS system, and after checking the diagrams, it is also connected to wire #66 of the ecm, so we have not done the test, but being the same everything, it should work as in the 1995 325i/525i. The wire should also be color green.
Best regards,
Richard
Thank you very much for the answer Richard. I will purchase the chip now and let you all know how it goes with the EWS wiring stuff.
I will take the car to the dyno later today to see std. power figures. After the new chip is hopefully succesfully installed I will make a new dyno run to see the changes.
You will hear more soon.
Peter – Denmark
ha, I will experiment my thought, your post bring me some good ideas, it’s truly amazing, thanks.
- Norman
Please, leave references to Mazda theme. very need
I have now installed a chip in my E34 M60B30 V8 from 1995. I had the original chip data copied and sent it to the chip-man. He could then put the original EWS code in the modified chip. Installation and start was perfect – as expected.
However – the dyno numbers show only a neglectible change in torque and power.
Std. 228 HP and 294 Nm (meas.)
Chip 229 HP and 294 Nm (meas.)
Std. 218 HP and 290 Nm (BMW official).
It seems as if this engine is in good shape making more power than BMW claims.
The torque curves must be concluded to be similar since the variation is only between +/- 2-4 %.
Subjectively it doesn´t feel any sharper or faster – as expected from the dyno numbers.
The rpm limit is raised to 7200 rpm which is of course a little risky – but it sounds good!
From this experience I cannot recommend to spend money on a modified chip for this engine configuration. Does anybody have different experiences or do you agree?
Best regards – Peter.
Hello Peter.
Thanks for your comments.
It all depends on many things, like any other modifications that the car may have, that are in favor of the program in the chip. For example, a chip that increases fuel, should not be installed in a car with bigger than stock injectors, unless there are other modifications to work with that, like forced induction, etc. I know that the above is not necessarily your case, but was just an example.
The most important thing might be the tuner. If the program that the tuner made for the car is not optimized for that car, less-than-maximum gains will be obtained.
As you mentioned, you send a file to a tuner. That means that the tuner did not see your car. I am sure that bigger power gains can be obtained form a V8 engine, but the tuner must have the car present, with it hooked to a dyno and some sort of data logging while doing the changes. That way you will obtain nearly the maximum that the engine can bring, though will cost a lot more than just tuning a one-size-fits-all chip.
One-size-fits-all chips are not bad if they are well programmed, but the back draw of using them is that the power obtained will not be the maximum available, as it is not custom made to your car. The good thing of them is that again, if well programmed, gains of some sort will be obtained (better than stock) and cost will not be too high.
Best regards,
Richard
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Hello
I am Marvelled with this , so that means according to Jerryvan Rosado if you cut wires 1 and 3 on the EWS you dont need the chip at all is that right Jerry .
Can you Help I have a 1997 BMW Z3 2.8 Automatic I changed the DME now the car will crank but will not start. I did not change the EWS and I believe that’s where the problem lies. I’m not concerned about the car being protected. Thank you for this site.
I was wondering if you put an ews delete chip for the red label dme into a silver label would you still have to cut the wires and do all that?
I bought a used dinan chip and now my car wont start with the stock chip also.
Hie All
If you cut the wires 1 and 3 do you still need to completely disconnect the EWS.
Brian
I have a 2004 325i bmw with no crank situation.
Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed regarding eliminating the EWS system?
thanks
I have been reading all of the posts, alot of questions answered thanks, but creates a new set of questions. like, I have a 1997 328i with ews2, I have joined the starter inhibitor wires (1& 3), now it cranks, cut EWS module wire #4 (on a silver label dme). Now, the questions, the original complaint, was the “death roll” of the ignition tumbler. bought a used tumbler and key, installed, and taped the original key to the antenna ring and secured under the dash. worked for about a year until the RF signal in the key died. now I am forced to buy a new key or two… and then pay to have them programmed to the ews/dme. total cost is over 200 bucks. Theft of the car is not much of a problem since the dog thinks its his…
will this chip work for the 1997 328I, and now that it cranks, i will not need to do anything else? IE send my key somewhere to get the new “chip” programmed??? BTW THANKS to all who have helped in this adventure to regain control of my Bimmer. sad though, takes a thief less than 30 seconds to steal a beemer, but a guy with the key can’t get it to start!!!!
Hello Jim.
“sad though, takes a thief less than 30 seconds to steal a beemer, but a guy with the key can’t get it to start!!!!”
Sounds hilarious, but it is tragic at the same time because it is true.
I guess there are very good techs working for thiefs… or very corrupted inside employees giving out the information. I can not think of anyone else knowing the codes better than the manufacturers… just saying.
Back to the original question, the problem is that the chip is compatible only with 1994 and 1995 models. 1997 models do not have chips like this, either electronically or physically.
If you jump the two wires in the EWS module, you will only enable the crank part, but the part of the program that disable ignition will still be in the original chip programming unfortunately.
Disabling the cranking motor is only a part of the protection of the EWS system.
I am sorry I can not help, as we are not working with OBD-II models (1996 and later).
Best regards,
Richard
http://www.TechnicalDomain.Net
Hey Richard,
I have a 95 bmw 318ti and im having the same issues described I have the EWS. I was wondering if this technique would still work on my car because its not a 325i or 525i
falta transponder key haomatch
Great write up, I know that most countries don’t have the 95 320i/520i with ews2 as the dme/ecu is siemens unlike the 325i which uses bosch dme/ecu. Is the a chip for my 320i 95 as I would like to get rid of the ews2 system? Thanks
I regret I can not tell. I know the Bosch ECU, but have never look into the programming of the chip inside of the Siemens ECU.
Since those are different manufacturers, I guess that if there is a way, it would be a different approach from the Bosch type, so it would not be as easy as just looking at the file on the chip.
Hello, can a 325i 2004 be stole without a key?
Hello Kathy.
Why are you asking? Looking for a manual on how to do it?
Just kidding…
Well, the only way I can thing of is by towing the car. The EWS system is a very hard one to crack, unless they are very, very technical thieves and with a lot of time to do the job.
Regards,
Richard
Hello. i just bouth a m52b28 engien 96 mod with EWS 2, the orginal motor in my car is a m50b20 92 mod with no ews. how shud i wiring this upp to runn ? i have only the ews 2 controller and engien controller and the key with chip. but not the ingition hole.
regards,
Martin, from norway
Are you saying the immobilser system can be got round by using one of these chips? Why did Peter from Norway get the ews data copied from his old ecu chip? Many thanks
@Martin:
In your case, regarding to EWS, since the ECM has no replaceable chip, it cannot be done the way it is done with the 1995 model. The only way I can see is by using an EWS emulator to simulate the EWS “OK” signal, like the one below:
http://www.obdtoolshop.com/auto-key-programmer/547570.html
or
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/492794808–STICTECH-50-Free-Shipping-BWM-EWS-Immo-Emulator-wholesalers.html
Please note, I am not recommending the above websites. It is only for showing examples, but I do not know them, neither I know their professionalism, seriousness or honesty. I only know that the product works but it is not exclusive and it is been sold by several stores over the Internet.
@James:
Yes, you may use an EWS delete chip on 1995 models only. Even if you do not use an “EWS Delete” chip (sold by Turner Motorsport), you may use a 1994 model chip (talking about the 0 261 200 413 ECM), which is not equipped with the EWS and put it in your 1995 ECM. Of course, still another solution is to replace the whole 1995 ECM with a 1994 ECM, but it will be more expensive.
Any of the later 2 solutions above, which do not use the “EWS Delete” chip, will require 2 more things; (1) that you disconnect (cut or disengage) the EWS data wire coming from #7 on the EWS module to #66 of the ECM, and (2) bridge connections #1 and #3 on the EWS module to enable the starter motor.
Best regards and thank you both for reading.
Richard