In your case, regarding to EWS, since the ECM has no replaceable chip, it cannot be done the way it is done with the 1995 model. The only way I can see is by using an EWS emulator to simulate the EWS “OK” signal, like the one below:

http://www.obdtoolshop.com/auto-key-programmer/547570.html

or

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/492794808–STICTECH-50-Free-Shipping-BWM-EWS-Immo-Emulator-wholesalers.html

Please note, I am not recommending the above websites. It is only for showing examples, but I do not know them, neither I know their professionalism, seriousness or honesty. I only know that the product works but it is not exclusive and it is been sold by several stores over the Internet.

@James:

Yes, you may use an EWS delete chip on 1995 models only. Even if you do not use an “EWS Delete” chip (sold by Turner Motorsport), you may use a 1994 model chip (talking about the 0 261 200 413 ECM), which is not equipped with the EWS and put it in your 1995 ECM. Of course, still another solution is to replace the whole 1995 ECM with a 1994 ECM, but it will be more expensive.

Any of the later 2 solutions above, which do not use the “EWS Delete” chip, will require 2 more things; (1) that you disconnect (cut or disengage) the EWS data wire coming from #7 on the EWS module to #66 of the ECM, and (2) bridge connections #1 and #3 on the EWS module to enable the starter motor.

Best regards and thank you both for reading.

Richard

regards,
Martin, from norway

Why are you asking? Looking for a manual on how to do it?

Just kidding…

Well, the only way I can thing of is by towing the car. The EWS system is a very hard one to crack, unless they are very, very technical thieves and with a lot of time to do the job.

Regards,

Richard

Since those are different manufacturers, I guess that if there is a way, it would be a different approach from the Bosch type, so it would not be as easy as just looking at the file on the chip.

“sad though, takes a thief less than 30 seconds to steal a beemer, but a guy with the key can’t get it to start!!!!”

Sounds hilarious, but it is tragic at the same time because it is true.

I guess there are very good techs working for thiefs… or very corrupted inside employees giving out the information. I can not think of anyone else knowing the codes better than the manufacturers… just saying.

Back to the original question, the problem is that the chip is compatible only with 1994 and 1995 models. 1997 models do not have chips like this, either electronically or physically.

If you jump the two wires in the EWS module, you will only enable the crank part, but the part of the program that disable ignition will still be in the original chip programming unfortunately.

Disabling the cranking motor is only a part of the protection of the EWS system.

I am sorry I can not help, as we are not working with OBD-II models (1996 and later).

Best regards,

Richard

http://www.TechnicalDomain.Net

If you cut the wires 1 and 3 do you still need to completely disconnect the EWS.
Brian

I bought a used dinan chip and now my car wont start with the stock chip also.

I am Marvelled with this , so that means according to Jerryvan Rosado if you cut wires 1 and 3 on the EWS you dont need the chip at all is that right Jerry .

Thanks for your comments.

It all depends on many things, like any other modifications that the car may have, that are in favor of the program in the chip. For example, a chip that increases fuel, should not be installed in a car with bigger than stock injectors, unless there are other modifications to work with that, like forced induction, etc. I know that the above is not necessarily your case, but was just an example.

The most important thing might be the tuner. If the program that the tuner made for the car is not optimized for that car, less-than-maximum gains will be obtained.

As you mentioned, you send a file to a tuner. That means that the tuner did not see your car. I am sure that bigger power gains can be obtained form a V8 engine, but the tuner must have the car present, with it hooked to a dyno and some sort of data logging while doing the changes. That way you will obtain nearly the maximum that the engine can bring, though will cost a lot more than just tuning a one-size-fits-all chip.

One-size-fits-all chips are not bad if they are well programmed, but the back draw of using them is that the power obtained will not be the maximum available, as it is not custom made to your car. The good thing of them is that again, if well programmed, gains of some sort will be obtained (better than stock) and cost will not be too high.

Best regards,

Richard

However – the dyno numbers show only a neglectible change in torque and power.
Std. 228 HP and 294 Nm (meas.)
Chip 229 HP and 294 Nm (meas.)
Std. 218 HP and 290 Nm (BMW official).
It seems as if this engine is in good shape making more power than BMW claims.
The torque curves must be concluded to be similar since the variation is only between +/- 2-4 %.
Subjectively it doesn´t feel any sharper or faster – as expected from the dyno numbers.
The rpm limit is raised to 7200 rpm which is of course a little risky – but it sounds good!

From this experience I cannot recommend to spend money on a modified chip for this engine configuration. Does anybody have different experiences or do you agree?

Best regards – Peter.